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After reading the previous posts by dip on the SAAB roadholding kit I decided to see if I could get one here in the US. Unfortunately, my web searches did not reveal a US supplier for the kit. I was able to find one in the UK, which I purchased. This is not for the faint of heart as you need to make sure you're ordering the right kit (I didn't want to deal with a potential mistake and return to the UK). There are a number of different kits available, so you will need the chassis code for your car. This is located in the engine compartment and is the alpha-numeric code beneath the VIN. The last two digits of the code give the give the front and rear shock codes which are needed to order the kit. When ordering the kit be aware you can get prices in dollars. Because you are ordering from outside the EU, you don't need to pay the 17% VAT. Shipping costs are high at approximately $200 (I'm on the east coast), but it was worth it as the total cost of the kit was approximately $750.00. For the this you get (see dip's posts for pictures), front & rear shocks, springs, sway bars, and all the necessary hardware, bushings, etc. It took a total of 9 days to get the kit (I ordered on a Sat. when they aren't open). Because the package is large/heavy, it was split into two shipments.
I did the intallation myself. The kit comes with a detailed instruction guide. I consider myself an above average mechanic, with a full compliment of tools including large metric and deep well sockets, a shock spring compressor, and a large vice. The only thing I didn't have was the engine support bar for the top of the engine, I used a jack under the engine, when lowering the rear engine subframe to install the front sway bar. The total time to install the kit was 12 hours, which I split into three sessions. I broke it down into rear shocks & sway bar, front shocks, and front sway bar. Each install has its own set of challenges. The rear shock nuts at the top are rusted (see dip's post for more details). I was able to get these loose by securing the shock rod in a vice, and with plenty of penetrating oil was able to get the nuts free. For the front shocks, the hardest part was removing the sway bar linkage from the shock tower. These were also rusted and you need to grab onto a thin 17mm nut behind the shock tower flange while simultaneously loosening the nut at the front of the flange. The 17mm wrench kept slipping off, which was frustrating. I didn't want to use a thin vice-grip as there is a rubber gaiter behind the rear nut which protects the bushing. In getting the front bar in, you will need to lower the rear engine sub-frame, while supporting the engine from below with a jack. The hardest part was breaking the rusted nuts free which held the bar to the lower part of the link that goes to the shock tower.
Dip's pictures document the difference in ride hide before & after. I took a quick measurement of the diameters of the new and old bars. The new bars are approximately 1 mm thicker front and rear.
As previously detailed you will need to get a 4 wheel alignment, so you will need to add that to your total cost.
In summary, I am happy with the install. The car rides firmer, corners flatter, but without sacrificing too much road comfort. I would caution those that are looking for a radical upgrade, this is not the kit for you.
Good luck if you decide to go for it!
posted by 24.63....
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