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Additional info Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Different testing method, Ari ![]() |
I've come across some 9-5 schematics.
Everything I said about the LCM is still correct. That's nice. Now, here's something to check - when you pull the high beam switch, do the high beams come on? With the headlights in the 'off' position, pulling the hi-beam lever should cause the high beams to be on as long as you hold the lever; they'll go out when you release it (pull-to-flash). With headlights on, the hi-beam switch should toggle the hi beams on, then off, with each pull.
I ask because the "pull to flash" uses some different circuitry. If Pull-To-Flash doesn't work, first check fuse 20, in the interior fuse block (behind left end of dashboard). If that fuse is OK, check fuse 13, in the underhood relay box. If both fuses are OK, get access to the high beam switch. Pin 5 of the switch should have 12 volts on it, even with the car off. That is the power from fuse 20. To check the switch, measure pin 1; it should be 0 volts with the hi-beam switch in the off position; it should be 12 volts when you pull the switch. Now, move the meter to pin 6 - it should be the same - 12 volts when you pull the hi-beam switch.
There are additional tests you can run - it helps if you can read a schematic. One 'nasty' bit is that the 'toggle on/off' portion of the high beam circuit isn't simply the high beam switch connected to a relay - the hi-beam switch goes into the DICE (Dashboard Integrated Central Electronics) module, and the DICE drives the relay. Let's assume that the problem is a bad fuse.
Does Pull-to-flash work?
You can also email me, and I can send you a .pdf of the schematic.
posted by 192.249....
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