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Sealant around timing chain Posted by Todd [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Re: My experience with oil leaks, John G, Thu, 25 Jan 2001 00:12:00 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I just finished this exact job. I pulled the whole works and replaced every gasket and seal I came across as I stripped the block down until all that was left was the block/crank and pistons sitting on the work bench. It sealed up tight as a drum. For the block to tranny I used the Saab gasket and also put a thin film of the anerobic sealer(Locktite 518) on both sides of the gasket all around the perimiter. Then the timing chain cover, no gasket but a bead of the 518 all the way around, same for the opposite endplate. When I did this I ensured that the surfaces where perfectly clean (a light sanding with w/d 180 grit) then a rub down with rubbing alcohol to get rid of any oil. As far as the head gasket, I did use the anerobic sealer around the ends (timing chain cover and end plate). Most of my leaks where in these areas as well. I stopped short of getting anywhere close to the barrels. I used a very thin film on both sides of the gasket In the area of the timing chain and end plate (oil return hole). The job was a success as far as oil leaks are concerned but the big problem was the fact that the "Saab experts" sold me a 2.0 l head gasket kit when my car is the 2.1l. I did not notice this Until I couldn't explain a strange mettalic sound not unlike valve noise at 3000 RPM. I found the error after scratching my head for a few days. The moral to this story "DO WHAT YOU WHERE TAUGHT AND ALWAYS, NO MATTER HOW SURE YOU ARE, PUT THE OLD AND NEW GASKETS SIDE BY SIDE AND INSPECT THEM THOROUGHLY NO MATTER HOW RUSHED YOU ARE". In ny case the gaskets are virtually identical but had I put them ontop of each other I would have noticed the hole size difference.
Let me know if you need more info.
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