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Posted by Hans (more from Hans) on Tue, 6 Feb 2001 14:46:14 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: You can find a good procedure at townsendimports.com, ChipJ, Mon, 5 Feb 2001 18:12:46
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The Townsend guys are pros; I am not. And so after much frustration trying to remove the valve from the speaker hole using their instructions, I was forced to remove the lower dash/knee pad and go at it from below using the Saabnet FAQ. It took me the better part of a day to complete the job and involves lying on your back, feet hanging out the door, head shoved up against the pedals (removing the driver's seat would definitely help).

I did not need to drain a bit of coolant before removing the hoses at the fire wall - not much coolant was lost when I did (I rinsed it away from the firewall - coolant and paint don't get along real well, apparently).

I used a flexible shaft driver that accepted Torx & allen bits - it was a big help. If you've got burly arms, working up in there may be a bit tough.

When removing the knee pad, which is bolted on from inside the engine compartment at the firewall, be aware that the bolts (10 mm, BTW) may be covered with some black goop, and may be hidden from view behind wiring - you may need to cut the plastic strapping (I think they're called "zip ties")that holds the wiring in place.

When refitting the knee pad, don't forget to first thread the ashtray light wiring through the hole in the pad!

If your car has the full center console, you may find it a bit tough to remove - be patient and gentle, or else you'll crack it like I did. :(

The Saabnet FAQ is helpful. The townsendimports.com instructions about removing 2 of the fascia screws and pulling the fascia out a bit to separate the knob mechanism from the valve are also helpful - they allow you to concentrate on refitting the core/valve without having to worry about also refitting the control knob at the same time.

One last thing: I found some cracks in the plastic heating duct work while working below - looks like someone had been in there before and had pulled the ducting without knowing it was attached with screws that aren't visible (there are small holes (~ 1/2 inch) in the ducting through which you insert a driver to remove the screws). Have a roll of duct tape handy if you discover any - my floor heat is noticeably stronger from having done a little patching. This was the first time I'd ever used duct tape for ducting... ;-)

Good luck,

Hans


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