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Fageddaboudit.
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Posted by JohnB (more from JohnB) on Mon, 19 Feb 2001 09:49:00 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Brake rotor rust removal, Tim O, Sun, 18 Feb 2001 07:41:21
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The pad WILL grind off the rust on the swept surface. Corrosion/pits are irrelevant unless rotor thickness is below minimum service limit.

One quick check is for large ridge on outer edge of rotor...if ridge is several millimeters high, then rotor thickness has been decreased twice that several millimeters and is probably bumping against the service limit. OTOH, I've knocked that ridge off with a grinder and lived on the rotors for several years.

IMHO, it sounds more like a stuck emergency brake on 87 and prior cars. When DB tapped the caliper he probably released the ebrake lever/shaft. I would check for mung and buildup between the ebrake lever and the caliper body and clean it out with a fine wire brush and solvent. Lube it slightly in there and see if the lever is free without the cable attached. BTW, replace those boots on the ebrake lever if they're torn or the end is missing. Those boots need to be packed with grease to keep moisture from wicking up the cables and rusting them out.

The calipers can be easily resealed and the ebrake shaft bushing/seal replaced...you generally have to take the calipers off the car but I guess it could be done on the car with difficulty.

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