1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Hi, Barry
I've changed the oil in my Swedish Beastie 54 times as of last Wednesday, so I've gotten pretty good at it. Since you've also got a 900T, you face similar problems, I'm sure.
I always begin by pulling the dipstick and removing the drain plug in the oil pan, to let the oil start flowing out. While that's going on, I tackle the filter.
To begin with, don't even try to reach that oil filter until you've removed the plastic feedhorn to the air filter canister. Two sheet metal #25 Torx screws hold the top of it to the fender, and a hose clamp holds the pipe onto the canister. Loosen the clamp, remove the Torx screws, and take that thing off. (If yours isn't a 1987 turbo, it might be a little different.)
I've been told I overdo this, but I change my oil every 3K miles (or six months... never gone that long) using synthetic oil. A lot of people say synthetics last much longer and have the oil analysis to back up their claim, but to me, a $20 oil change every few months is cheap insurance. Since I change my oil often, I'm willing to use the smaller filter size that Dan talks about. Believe me, the smaller filter makes things MUCH easier.
There's been a lot of bad press about FRAM filters, and I refuse to use them. Internally, they're cheap and have crummy filtering media. A better choice is an AC-Delco filter, and the PF-53 size fits nicely on the Saab. You can find them at K-Mart or other discount stores for about the same price as the FRAMs.
I reach in with both hands and can usually twist off the filter without a wrench if the engine is cold. If the filter is stuck, a strap wrench or oil filter wrench with pivoting handle (another K-Mart purchase) will get it off. The larger sized filters are a problem if you use a filter wrench with a wide metal band -- can't get the wrench under the filter due to clearance/interferance with other engine parts. That's another reason to switch to the smaller filter.
When you spin off the filter, it will drop an inch or so, leaking oil down the sides. Have a rag handy, catch the filter upright, and guide it out carefully trying not to spill any. After you've done it a few times, you'll get good at it! At this point, it's a good idea to wash your hands and get the oil off.
I always examine the threads and wipe off the metal surface on the filter mount with a clean rag to assure a good seal. Then I pour oil into the new filter and lubricate the gasket with oil. With DRY hands, I guide the new filter in place and spin it on... twisting it "Not-Quite-Gorilla-Tight," to quote an old mechanic I knew. I can usually get just about 3/4 to 1 full turn after the gasket contacts the mount.
By this time the oil has drained out, so I replace the drain plug, drag the drain pan out, and dump the oil from the old filter into the pan. I empty the pan into a plastic gallon container using a funnel. I always like to take care of this step before doing anything else, because I'm worried I'll kick the oil pan or step in it if I leave it laying around! A local hobby shop happily accepts my used oil and has a machine to crush the filters.
Next, I fill the car with oil. I recently switched from Castrol Syntec to Mobil 1. Both cost about $4/quart here in Florida. My shop manual says the capacity is 3.8 quarts, but I've never noted any problems putting in 4 quarts of oil. It goes just a hair over the MAX mark on the dipstick.
Finally, I re-fit the air filter duct. Done! The whole operation, including clean up afterwards, takes me less than 20 minutes. The only snag I've ever run across is a stubborn oil filter, but if you switch to the AC-Delco PF-53 and only tighten it by hand, you won't have a problem next time you change your oil.
Good luck!
- = M = -
'87 900T 163K
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