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Re: Fuel Pump! (noises & poor performance?) Posted by Dana [Email]  (#2822) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Dana) on Sun, 25 Feb 2001 10:13:14
In Reply to: Fuel Pump! (noises & poor performance?), Nathan Enders, Sat, 24 Feb 2001 12:24:57 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The 87 may be a bit different from my 85...but I can give you my experience. Mine started to make that "extra" noise you mentioned. It had been making the "standard" whirling noise for many years...I would say it has an extra "errrr...tiny rattle sound" which is periodic. You can heard the difference in the car. Car would run fine except when you reach above 45 mph.....then the car would hesitate, shutter, etc....with the extra noise I knew it was finally time for the fuel pump...My problem was the main pump...Did all my work OUTSIDE with disconnected battery. Fuel pump is accessible under floor board of trunk thru 6 inch rubber edged access plate to top of gas tank.
Need to undo fuel line and disconnect push on wires...move to side. Use a 1/4 long drive with swivel to take off band clamp on pump mounting rubber bellows....lift pump gently and let gas drain out of plastic canister slowly.....Then you will see the following....total job is less than an hour...
On the 85 the fuel pump system consists of a main pump, a plastic interstage canister, and a prepump. The metal main pump was the most expensive< $185, the plastic prepump only $27 from Sobstory. The main pump is round, 4" diameter and approx 9" long. It simply plugs snugly into the top hole of a plastic canister which has a rubber seal around the hole.
This main pumps has its own separate plastic intake screen to filter out particles it can such in from the canister. There is a simple plastic flapper relief valve on the canister to set the operating pressure of the suction to the main pump.
Mounted to the side of the canister is the small plastic prepump. It is connected with two wires....on very delicate (small terminals)...must use care and not overtighten them...watch the wire color code...DO NOT ACCIDENTLY reverse the wiring connectin. It is held by a simple two screw clamp around its body. The prepump has an o-ring around its discharge plastic neck which plugs into the plastic canister. There is another plastic strainer on the inlet to this pump too. Both of these strainers are just glued mesh on plastic....you can get a small tear and all kinds of garbage can get into the pumps...which was my problem....There is also a metal check valve which screws into the top of the main pump. There were two reassembly measurements which are critical to make sure the pump sits down low enough into the tank....
From the top edge of the main fuel pump to the bottom edge of the main rubber bellows...this distance should be 1.825" +/- .079 inches
From the bottom edge of the rubber bellows to the top edge of the plastic canister...this distance should be 4 mm +/- 2 mm
Mark a line on the new pump 1.825" down from the top of the pump and another line 4mm below that. Then insert the new pump into the bottom of the big rubber bellows up to that 1.825 line. Then insert the bottom end of the main pump into the canister up to the 4mm line...reassemble
, Sun, 25 Feb 2001 10:13:14 <-- Viewing This Message
, Sat, 24 Feb 2001 19:10:19
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