Click Banner for Details on this Saabnet.com Classified
The banner above is an advertisment - if it asks you to download software, please ignore.
Site News -
7/1: Members: Log In to See Fewer Ads! |
5/28: SAAB Evolutions/TSN T-Shirts $14
[General |
Members |
C900 |
9000 |
NG900 & OG93 |
93 |
95 |
NG95 |
99 |
Sonett |
Vintage Models |
Clubs |
Other Cars |
FAQs |
Gifts |
Member Photo Galleries |
Member Directory |
Classifieds |
Manuals |
*Buddy Registry |
*Mileage Registry |
Polls |
What's New |
Raffle |
Photo of the Month |
Sponsors]
[Main C900 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
I think I figured out what Saab USA already knows
Posted by dave n (more from dave n) on Sun, 22 Apr 2001 16:34:05
In Reply to: 87 900T broken control arm, Rich M, Sun, 22 Apr 2001 09:42:06
Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup
I tried to figure out why they always seem to crack right near the mounting point. Many people think the cracking is due to acceleration and high hp. That doesn't really explain why it cracks about one inch from the weld. I speculate that when the suspension bottoms out the arm hits the body at the point where the cracks develop. That creates a bending on the a-arm channel at that point that fatigues the metal over the years. I haven't figured out how to get my car suspension to bottom out so I can see if it actually hits the body. But, if you think about it, the rubber bump stops (in center of spring) usually fall apart on older cars which allows the suspension to travel upward even more. In that case, the a-arm hitting the body becomes the limit to suspension travel. My passenger side bump stop is missing the top inch or so. THat's the same side that developed the crack. IF someone was upgrading their springs they could test the travel limit of front suspension while the springs are out. Anyone think this is reasonable? It really should be a Saab recall. If you're working on suspension parts you should always use threadlock or new nylon locking nuts!! I'm no expert so please correct me if my opinions are not true.
dave n
Posts in this Thread:
Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup
Post a Followup
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
StateOfNine.com
![](/tsn/xyz/stateofninebutton.gif) |
SaabClub.com
![](/tsn/xyz/scnabutton.gif) |
Jak Stoll Performance
![](/tsn/xyz/jakstollbutton.gif) |
M Car Covers
![](/tsn/xyz/mcarcoversbutton.gif) |
Ad Available
![](/tsn/xyz/buttonavailable.gif) |
![](/tsn/images/tsnmap.gif)
Random Saabnet.com Member Gallery Photos (Click Image)
This is a moderated bulletin board - Posting is a privilege, not a right.
Unsolicited commercial postings are not allowed (no spam). Please, no For Sale or Wanted postings, SERIOUSLY.
Classifieds are to be listed in The Saab Network Classifieds pages.
This is a problem solving forum for over 250,000 Saab owners, so expect to see
problems discussed here even though our cars are generally very reliable. This is not an anything goes
type of forum. Saabnet.com has been a moderated forum since 1988. For usage guidelines, see the
Saabnet.com Mission and Purpose Page. Please remember that you are
not anonymous. Site Contact | Site Donations | Other Sites by SP -
Poverty2Prosperity.org | Run Club Menlo Park | ScreenBot
Site Members do not see red text instructions, bottom of the page anchor ads, or box ads.
Click here to see all
the Site Membership Benefits!