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Re: No spark after 8V to 16V conversion (long!)
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Posted by Justin VanAbrahams [Email] (#32) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Justin VanAbrahams) on Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:22:34 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: No spark after 8V to 16V conversion (long!), Angus M Smith, Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:40:21
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Man, I've been very near where you are... Here's what I know:

You really, REALLY don't want to cut the wires from the ignition amplifier to the Hall Sensor. Those wires are shielded (with a ground wrap) and cutting them violates this. Probably would not be a problem during cranking but could introduce noise and faulty signals at other times.

That said, does the 16v use Lucas? If so, I can't be of much help since I don't know squat about it. If it's the standard Bosch Hall-Effect, then maybe what I'm going to say will be useful.

The thing to keep in mind about the 900T ignition system is that it is completely self-contained in three components and doesn't need any outside assistance to work. Those three components are the Hall Sensor (in the distributor), the Ignition Control Unit (silver box on the fender), and the Ignition Coil (uh, duh :). When moving these three components around you want to keep them AND their wiring harness intact as much as possible.

The Bentley manual is very complete about it tests in this area IME. I would only modify them in this circumstances by running test 4 at the Hall Sensor and test 2 at the ICU. That will tell you if your wiring is okay. If you pass all these tests, try swapping the ICU - all 16v 900T units are compatible. This *sounds* like yours has gone bad, since a 6v output is way beyond spec - and they do go bad completely without warning. Perhaps noteworthy is that you will not get a tach readout during cranking (this confounded me, but it's true) but you can test for 2-3VAC at the gauge cluster to verify wiring up to that point - that worked for me.

I can't think of anything else. If you've cut wires, I would strongly recommend rewiring. Do NOT cut the lead from pins 1,3,5, and 6 off the ICU connector - use these wires *intact* for best results. The remaining three wires (2,4,7) should be spliced onto the exiting wiring. Pin 1 from the ICU will need to be run to Pin 1 on the coil (discard the old one) but use the existing Pin 15 at the coil. IMHO this is the easiest, cleanest way of doing this wiring.

Let me know if this helps at all... I just got done installing Hall-Effect into a 1980 5-door, and I got that to work with no fuss whatsoever, so this *should* work! :)

-Justin

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