1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Rust-free parts can be had from, well, rust-free areas of the country. :-) Seriously try CA, WA, the South, etc. Also, local recyclers that warehouse their parts may have rust-free doors from long-ago destroyed Saabs.
If possible (and no more expensive), get a door from a car with the same trim level so you don't have to muck about with switching rear-view mirrors and power window components. If you can't, don't sweat it, but it'll take a bit more time to re-fit the old components to the new door. When removing the old mirror, you'll have to push the plastic rivet located on the black, triangular plastic interior piece into the door (where it'll likely be lost forever, but it's not completely necessary).
If you're not going to be painting it but want the existing color, try to get one of roughly the same vintage so the paint has aged equally.
The wiring from the door to the car comes out fairly easily (don't cut the wires). You may have to cut the plastic "zip-ties" that hold the wires together; have some new ones handy when fitting the new door.
As far as removing the old door, no, you don't need some kind of rig - just hold the door in place, and it should come free without falling off the car. IIRC, I opened the door, rolled down the window and squatted a bit at the door so the top edge rested on my shoulder. Another technique: park the car right up against a curb, open the door so it swings out over the sidewalk/grass easement/etc., and brace it from below with a couple boards or equivalent support. I felt less likely to drop the door using the shoulder technique.
Before fitting the replacement, check the condition of the rubber bits; swap parts from the old door if in better condition. If the door comes with glass, check it, too; swap with the better window, if necessary. Grease the window regulator while you're at it.
When fitting the replacement, be sure that the door is flush to the surrounding bodywork, which takes some tweaking to get right: at the front fender, the rear quarter panel (or door, if yours is a 4-door), etc. Also be sure that the door is hung "square" and doesn't droop too low at the back edge.
Last, note that the ~2-inch black trim strip on the replacement door may not line up exactly with the existing trim. If it's way off, remove the trim and put it on again using some 3M double-sided adhesive from a parts store.
posted by 216.160.9...
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