1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
It's a good idea when you get where you're going to make sure the belt is properly tensioned, but in order to solve your immediate problem:
I'm not absolutely sure if your car is an 8 valve whether the procedure is the same (though I think so, someone here will confirm). Here's what you do for any 16 valve.
There's a "pivot mounting bolt" which runs horizontally along the length of the car. You need to loosen that one first. Then you remove the "adjusting bolt" which runs roughly perpendicular to the first one. Once you do that, it will allow the alternator assembly to pivot towards the engine, allowing slack in the belts (there should be two alternator belts, by the way, running between crankshaft pulley, water pump, and alternator) Push the alternator assembly toward the engine, and the belts should slip off to the firewall side. If your current belts are broken, this removal part should be even easier :-)
Ok, so then you take your new belts, and carefully weasel your way in there to guide them around where they're supposed to go on the crankshaft pulley, then on the water pump. Make sure you have them lined up nicely, especially on the crankshaft pulley, or you'll be pulling like a madman trying to get them over the alternator pulley. Ok, so do that, then push the alternator as far as it will pivot toward the engine, and slip the belts over the alternator pulley. Let the alternator fall back toward you and belts will be loosely tensioned. Reattach your adjusting bolt, and turn it until the belt is tight enough that if you press on it in the middle (don't press really hard, but firmly), it deflects roughly 1/4" ... this should be adequately tight to get you where you're going... in fact it's probably adequate all the time.
Make sure to check that your new belts are a matched set..usually there's a run number or something on there...it should be the same on both belts for equal tension. Hmm..what else...you may need to move the heater hoses out of the way for good access (you won't lose much coolant, but should bleed air from the bleeder valve on top of thermostat if you do remove the hoses).. but I think you can do it without moving them.
Start the engine and watch the belts to make sure everything looks cool before you take off.
If all else fails, there's a highly recommended guy named Walter Wong (tel # 310-666-2406) who does Saab mobile service in LA...he's a site sponsor, and if people are right, a righteous factory-trained Saab dude (I've never spoken to him personally)
posted by 128.42.178...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
