1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
It's not too bad a job. Definitely check out above Jeff and Royce's excellent web site (http://www.twinsaabs.com) and http://www.townsendimports.com for DIY info. It's also a great time to do the following:
1) Water pump (general opinion seems to be absolutely do this if >100,000 miles on it.
2) Alternator mount and support arm bushings.
3) Alternator brushes (again see http://www.townsendimports.com for details on how to check wear)
4) A/C Idler pulley
5) Belts (should always be replaced when doing this work)
6) I'm also doing a coolant service (drain/flush/replace, new thermostat, upper rad hoses) since it's easy when I'm already doing #1
You also need one special tool, which is a shortened 27 mm (or 30? mm, depending on year) socket to fit the oulley bolt. I took a standard shallow socket and used a Dremel tool and a diamond wheel to cut off ~1/2" of length. The hardest part, as most people report, is removing the main pulley bolt. There are various opinions on how to lock the engine in order to react the torque to loosen the bolt, including using the starter and running a breaker bar into the frame (I was too scared to do this and locked my flywheel by jamming in a screw-driver. The bolt actually loosened quite easily, although I gather this is not the norm). A friend of mine inserted rope into the cylinder through the spark-plug hole (not a SAAB), but that doesn't seem like a great idea ;-).
Once the bolt is out, it's quite easy to remove the oil pump and replace the front engine seal and oil-pump o-ring.
I got most of my stuff from http://www.eeuroparts.com (site sponsor), so the job wasn't pricey, either.
Good luck!
Jeff
posted by 64.229.159...
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