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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
The threaded wastegate collar will not turn on the shaft because the collar is fixed into position by the pin in the gate lever. Also the threaded shaft is fixed to the diaphram in the round cylinder and does not turn freely. If the rod does turn freely, you could have a problem with the diaphram and would probably experience severe erratic boost problems. You would notice this!
OK, so it's in your head, and you can snug up the locknut. As others suggest, your base level boost is probably low (my guess at 3-4psi if it's never been reset) and you can set it very roughly using your in car boost gauge and trial and error. When the car is cold, remove the circlip(and safety wire) from the connecting pin and make sure you can turn the collar on the rod easily. Do not force the collar if it's tight or allow the rod to turn. This can tear the diaphram.
Then hook the collar back to the lever with the pin using a temporary cotter pin /nail to keep it from popping out. Then pull the APC solenoid(near coil above radiator) electrical plug and run you car wide open in 3rd gear to see on your boost gauge where the base boost is. If it's below 1/2 you can then get back under the bumper and unhook the wastegate control(it's hot now) and shorten the assembly by turning the collar clockwise 2 full turns. Then go for a ride and see how far up the base boost has come. It may take another turn or two, to get to half yellow. Note that a calibrated gauge is better because boost gauges do not all read the same from year to year. But this ain't brain surgery.
After you have it at about 1/2 yellow, plug the APC solenoid back in and see how your boost performance is. Probably much faster spool up and max boost will be around the yellow/red line, maybe up to 1/4 red assuming you have not tweaked the actual APC computer(another story). If you have shortened the wastegate rod assembly too much, you will be well into red at max boost and might be hitting the knock sensor boost cut or fuel pump cut-off. If so lengthen the assembly a turn or two. With a calibrated boost gauge, you set it between 5-6 according to taste.
After all this, put the circlip back on the pin, and make a more permanent cotter pin installation in the pin. Last snug up the lock nut, just cuz.
You will now realize that the lock nut serves no real function! My guess is that they use the locknut in manufacturing, i.e the diaphram controller is calibrated before final assembly and the lock nut just keeps the collar from turning until it is hooked up the the wastegate lever on the assembly line.
posted by 216.75.9...
, Wed, 2 Oct 2002 15:19:43, Wed, 2 Oct 2002 16:33:56
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