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Randy, just read your AMM question and my response may get lost today...
I had one 'bad AMM' which would intermittently get a VERY RICH idle. Spitting soot and laboring hard to idle. I had another one which would trigger a CE light and would stall intermittently and be hard to start (IIRC). They can fail in odd ways. It is basically a hot wire anemometer. To read the air mass flow rate. The internal circuit has to increase the current to the wire to maintain a specified temperature. The higher the flow, the higher the current. This is then processed (in analog fashion) to give a proportional voltage to mass flow rate. It is a complete analog circuit. An analog circuit can drift over time and with corrosion on the board, etc. You can check the output in voltage. Mine, when good, all check 2.15V at idle. If it is 2.6 at idle (for example my really bad one), you have a bad AMM. It may check fine 2.1-2.2V and still be bad because it cannot accomodate an accelerating flow. If you cannot swap in a 'known good' just suck it up and get a rebuilt. You will need one eventually anyway. Make sure that all other basic maintenance stuff is verified good or replaced first, (plugs, wires, cap, button, coil, air fliter, fuel filter (though I have NEVER seen a fuel filter affect engine running), FPR (see if fuel is feeding into the intake past the diaphragm, vacuum leaks). good luck!
posted by 66.149.8...
, Wed, 23 Oct 2002 21:07:06
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