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Re: Low clutch: no leaks, but air is getting past seals?
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Posted by gorper (more from gorper) on Tue, 21 Jan 2003 16:38:56 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Low clutch: no leaks, but air is getting past seals?, Terraplanem, Tue, 21 Jan 2003 14:35:49
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you can rebuild the cylinder if you want; i haven't done it & only wanted to deal with this once so i bought a new unit. when i looked into this i found some old posts by people who had had no problems with rebuild; others had it last just months or maybe a year. if money is an issue, try the rebuild kit. you'll also need a small brake hone. the process looks pretty straightforward: remove old guts, use the hone on the cylinder, but the new guts in and go. if the cylinder is scored, you'll need a new one.

you can get a new master from a sponsor - about $85. the part you'll get - lockheed - is identical to oem, down to the part number. if car has lots of miles, consider getting a new clutch line while you're at it - about $45.

have a water hose handy to deal with the brake fluid that you will inevitably spill. use liberal amounts of water when it does.

wrap the rubber supply line from brake master reservoir w/something to protect it from the vice grips you're going to use to pinch off fluid supply.

unbolt the coolant reservoir and the alternator so you can swing them out of the way for more room. u don't have to remove the alternator, just loosen its bracket bolt & push it toward the motor.

working underhood, unbolt clutch line from master and remove supply line.

spray liberal amts of water on any drips/dribbles/pours.

okay: blind spot in memory here - i can't recall if you have to remove the knee bolster or not. if you look down there and can't get at the cylinder, get to work on the bolster (hopefully, you don't have to...).

working inside car @ pedals, free the clutch pedal from the master plunger. if you'r car is older than (i *think*) '89, inspect clutch pedal hole for ovaling. if it is, either drill it out & use a larger pin on re-fit, or cram a brass sleeve in there & use existing pin.

unbolt the master & pull it into the car. have a rag handy to catch the dribbles.

remove new master from box & behold its shiny newness.

working inside the car, slide it thru the firewall but don't bolt it up tight yet. you need some 'play' to get the clutch line on.

back underhood, fit the clutch line to the master. for me, this was the toughest part. be patient if you have a hard time threading it on.

tighten down the master & refit clutch pedal.

re-fit the rubber tube from the brake master.

re-tighten the alternator to its bracket; bolt reservoir back down.

time for fun: bleeding. i had no problems with air at the master, so if you do, you'll want to read old posts here.

may as well flush the entire brake/clutch system at this point if it hasn't been done in a while.

for clutch, you need to do either a pressure bleed or get an old-fashioned oil can & hose to push fluid up the clutch line from the slave. i haven't tried this but have read numerous "duh, i can't believe how easy this is" posts. don't overflow the reservoir.

make sure you've got a solid pedal & test her out.

posted by 216.160.9...

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