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If you also changed the reservoir, the plastic tip onto which the cluth MC fluid supply hose connects needs to be opened. I remember swapping out my clutch MC. With all the connection tight and fluid in the res, I was not able to build up any pressure. I could have pumped the pedal forever and nothing would have changed. Since I didn't have a pressure bleeding kit, I opted for a reverse bleed: one end of a long (36 inches should do it) clear flex hose connected to the slave nipple, a funnel (the fit has to be tight) attached to the other end and suspended above the engine. Fluid is poured into the funnel/hose until fluid fills the entire hose and some in the funnel. Then I just opened the slave nipple a 1/4 turn. With the res cap off at the same time, gravity will push fluid throughout the system and up to the reservoir. It's a slow process (10, 15 min?), but that takes care of most of the air within the clutch MC. After a good bit of fluid from the funnel has coursed through the system (you'll see the fluid sink down the hose), close the slave nipple and test the clutch pedal. You should have pressure. A normal bleeding is then possible.
To quicken the process, slip one end of a smaller diameter clear flex hose down into the hose suspended above the engine and blow air into the other end. This makes the fluid sink faster. A tight fit between the two hoses is the key, otherwise you just make bubbles. With this fluid filled hose still suspended above the engine and connected to the opened slave cyl nipple, you can s l o w l y pump the clutch pedal in and out. You'll see any air within the slave rise up the hose.
That's what got my clutch MC to work.
posted by 198.81.26...
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