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Re: Change timing chain tensioner & pad in valve cover? Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Change timing chain tensioner & pad in valve cover?, Chris R, Wed, 11 Feb 2004 20:15:50 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
First, there are a lot of things that cause rattly Saab engines. A dried-out upper chain guide is one; old chain tensioner doesn't help. Yes, a worn chain is noisy, but since there are so may other possibilities (valve lifters, worn fuel rail damper, noisy injectors) I would never change a chain based on sound alone, not unless it sounded like a tin can full of silverware rolling down stairs.
Replacing the upper chain guide is easy. Just remove the valve cover, pull the old, dried one out, stick a new one in (about $25). Of course, you need a new valve cover gasket. Since valve cover gaskets tend to start weeping oil after a few years, it's probably time.
While you're in there, visually inspect the chain and cam gears. I'm assuming you've got a 16 valve engine (just an assumption). A worn chain, looks, well, worn. Gear teeth will be rounded and thin. Turn the engine to TDC for cylinder #1, and look at the alignment marks on the cams against the marks on the bearing blocks. They should line up. If they're off, it's the sign of a worn chain. How much is too much? On some years, the mark is a "V". If the line is at the base of the V, it's perfect. If it's within the wide part of the V, it's OK but not great. Outside the V, not good.
The newer style chain tensioner is a good thing to have. It has finer adjustments. How to tell which you have? The old style was a cadium plated plain 27mm flat bolt from exterior appearance. The new is black 27mm with a 12mm bolt on top, considerable taller than the flat predecessor.
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