Re: attn: Gorper, alignment stuff and questions - Saab 900 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Re: attn: Gorper, alignment stuff and questions
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Posted by gorper (more from gorper) on Wed, 18 Aug 2004 22:50:54 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: attn: Gorper, alignment stuff and questions, Nathan Pflaum [Profile/Gallery] , Wed, 18 Aug 2004 17:26:57
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If your outer edges are wearing quickly, as in noticeable wear in just a few hundred miles, then you have too much toe-in and not a camber issue. Take the car back to the shop that did the work if this is the case. On the other hand, if it's been several thousand miles and you're driving the car agressively, then, yes, I'd get more negative camber and less toe-in. Note that worn suspension components prevent your alignment from "sticking." A competent shop should check your ball joints and tie rod ends.

Adding shims isn't too hard, but you may have a tough time managing the bolts on the rearward bracket on the driver's side; also, managing the bolts on the rearward bracket on the passenger side requires that the engine be cold, as you'll be snaking your hand behind the engine mount.

You'll need a pry bar to push the arm inward when adding shims; also, it helps to tape the shims you're adding together so they don't slip out. The tape also differentiates the shims you added from those that are already there.

The shims come in .5, 1, and 2 mm. Get them from a junkyard car; it'll probably take a couple cars' worth to get enough (don't waste your time getting *all* of the shims from the driver's side).

Go back and look at my old posts with specs from the manual, but I think it's 5mm for a degree of camber, maybe a bit less. To keep things simple, consider adding the same amount of shims to both the front and rear brackets; this will maintain your caster settings, which are assymetrical from side-to-side to compensate for road crown.

Note that when you increase negative camber**, you also increase toe-in. This is because as you pull the a-arm inward, it pushes the tie rod end out; because the tie-rod is at the back of the steering knuckle, the effect is to push the wheels outward in the rear, i.e., it increases toe-in. Therefore, you'll need to adjust the toe *after* you increase negative camber. Search here and Google for "diy alignment" for info on adjusting toe; it's pretty straightforward.



**Incidentally, part of why people report improved handling after adding lower, stiffer springs is because lowering also increases negative camber.



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