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C900 Bulletin Board
1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest]
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try reconditioning the pads.
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Posted by JohnB (more from JohnB) on Thu, 7 Oct 2004 04:31:43 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: New Rotors??, phil, Tue, 5 Oct 2004 09:13:22
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Some people pull the pads, lightly sand them and chamfer the corners and put them back in...deglaze.

Then do the pad burnish drill...up to 40-50 mph, brake moderately to 20mph, accelerate normally to 40-50 mph and brake to 20...repeat 10 times.

Then go to 70-80 mph, brake moderately hard to 30mph, accelerate to 70-80 and brake again to 30mph, do it 2-3 times...drive for a few minutes between applications to cool the rotors.

Your brakes shouldn't squeal after this drill when you bring it to a stop.

One more thing...quit parking with your emergency brake on when the brakes are hot.

If you have (or if you don't, buy one) a Raytek infrared thermometer you can check the operating temp of your rotors after a drive...marked (more than 10-20F) difference between left and right temps is indicative of pad drag/caliper drag. This will heat up the rotors unnecessarily and when you park the car with the ebrake on (87's have front ebrakes) the pads will transfer material unevenly to the rotor. Then when you run the car again you get all kinds of problems.

I've recently changed to KVR slotted rotors (from SPG9) and Hawk HPS pads on my 87 900T with automatic. Absolutely incredible stopping power with low brake pedal pressure..easily modulated. Front wheels can be locked at will (much better straight line stopping), so much so that I'm considering changing out my rear pads to Hawk.

Stoptech has an interesting article. try http://www.stoptech.com

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