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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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, Mon, 3 Jan 2005 19:23:56
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Seems to me however not exactly as the two 89 900s I've done. Shows some kind of square-form seal where ones I did have o-rings.
Don't need a press, can get it started apart setting body up on blocks and tapping sleeve with a wooden block. Goes back together with just hand pressure.
An old toothbrush helps on the scrubbing; lots of sand on mine. I used rubbing alcohol as solvent throughout but maybe acetone (nail polish remover) would cut old hardened varnish deposits inside better.
First step on mine was release the external snap ring and remove the plastic follower sleeve behind the release bearing, not shown in the pic. Some aftermarket replacements have a rubber bellows here that just pulls off, no snap ring.
Both sleeve (aluminum nose flaring out at rear, with four machined indents with no clear purpose) and piston (steel sleeve, part that actually moves and on which throwout bearing rides) press out back, I recall.
There's an internal o-ring in the bore of the body casting, that seals to the piston, and an internal o-ring in the bore of the piston, that seals to the sleeve, as well as the o-ring showing in DougM's pic, at rear of sleeve sealing that to body. Their metric sizes are by the way 3mm by 35mm, 3mm by 39mm, and 3mm by 49mm.
There was a fair amount of rust on the steel piston part out where it's exposed, and I wire-brushed its exterior on a grinder, and sanded its interior. Also a little aluminum corrosion on the outside end of the sleeve where the piston covered it that I cleaned up with 600 grit wet-or-dry. (I needed 600 grit also to remove dried-on varnish of old brake fluid inside but maybe acetone would cut this.)
The rust and corrosion on mine was well out past the sealing-travel areas of either element and I had no qualms rebuilding what I had.
You can plainly see and clean the ports where the hydraulic line leads fluid in and where the bleeder screw lets air out. (Sits on top.) I wirebrushed also the exterior parts of my bleeder screw, keeping completely back from the inner end of the threads or the beveled sealing seat. I did clean it out internally with a little stiff wire, then compressed air.
I bought locally from a place in Portland, ME called Seals Unlimited the 3 o-rings, total cash outlay $2.13, but that was in Buna rubber, and they warned me it doesn't hold up well in brake fluid and really should be EPR/EPDM or at least neoprene, but they didn't stock either and a year later all is still fine. (What rubber does the original use? What AP replacement? What is sold at site sponsors?)
posted by 68.238.50...
, Mon, 3 Jan 2005 19:23:56
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