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Emma: Go to the website townsendimports.com, click on Saabmaster logo, click enter, then click on "Technical Documents" and somewhere there under Electrical I think you'll find his solution to this problem, as with all other entries there told cleanly and with helpful tips. He removes one of the bracket-to-block bolts, pokes the bolt out of the alternator as far as it will go to the rear, then uses it as a lever to swivel that bracket on its remaining bolt, I would guess counter-clockwise so it doesn't fight by tightening, and THEN there's room to pull the bolt out, at an angle.
When I did this, I didn't have his advice and I took both bolts out of the bottom bracket and removed it along with alternator. I recall removing the alternator adjusting link, using string to tie the alternator all the way up out of the way, then using a long BALL-END allen wrench key (Russ Giuliano above says it's 6 mm and I'm sure he's right), stuck in the bolt, I locked a pair of 7" vise grips on the short leg of the key and got the bolt that was otherwise unreachable out.
These ball-end allen wrenches are sort of a specialty tool but can maybe be found at a good tool source such as Sears or an auto parts store. Mine are Bondhus brand, there are others. You need to buy a set to get ball-endedness. R. Giuliano specifies some possibly harder to find tools, available at places such as I suggested or from a tool truck guy (Snap-On).
Ball-end hex keys, wobble extensions and flex sockets are all ways of turning things you can't get straight at. You give up something in strength but they can be helpful to own.
But if you do the Townsend maneuver I don't think you need anything that special.
Then again, maybe the only thing wrong with your alternator is worn brushes for which you don't need to replace the whole thing. You can get a voltage regulator-brush set from some of this site's sponsors or even just the brushes online from a non-sponsor and even with alternator sitting right in the car, get two #1 Phillips head screws out and change that part. (The ultra-cheapo brushes only route means you need to solder them to your old regulator).
You can also just pull the brushes from a junkyard car and that would be almost free.
Do a search on this bulletin board for many prior references to this topic.
posted by 68.238.54...
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