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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Pull the fluid feed hose off the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir, and slip a cup under there to catch what drains down. It's a side compartment and can't drain the brakes down to danger point.
Then using a torx bit or vise grips loosen or remove the clip that holds the steel line to the inner fender well (It holds clutch and I think a brake line too.)
Then use a 1/2" or 13 mm wrench to crack loose the flare nut on the line into the cylinder. Don't unscrew it yet, it's hard getting at it.
Then put a piece of carpet or cardboard on the ground and sit down looking in at your clutch pedal. Get your fingers on the clip on the clevis pin and pry up its outer section and push it off, then push the clevis pin out. You don't even need tools to do that.
Then the 13mm or 1/2" wrench again, remove the two nuts holding cylinder to firewall. They're "aviation" type with nylon insert so they come off hard all the way. I replaced mine with standard metric 8 mm nuts so once loose they spin off.
Without the clip holding the line to the wheelwell, I've heard that the cylinder can be partly removed and the flare nut can then be loosened to removal point by hand. On reinstalling tighten the flare nut all but all the way by hand before tightening the cylinder to the firewall, then do the last tightening - - and keep it only just bottomed out so you can crack it again to bleed the master cylinder; someone pointed out that that's helpful in getting clutch system to bleed quicker than trying to do all your bleeding at the nipple on the slave. Air bubbles want to rise back up the line.
I've read here that the best tool for the flare nut is a crow's foot flare nut wrench, a very specialized tool.
I'm lucky in having an early 20th century lever-operated arbor press that makes it easy holding the spring and works in the cylinder while locking the inside retaining ring. A big vise might open enough to let you do the job.
You might get away with doing it in the car. Be ready for a minor flood of brake fluid out the mouth and down onto the carpet when you pop the snap ring and pull the piston out. (Is there room to do that with the pedal there?)
The pedal could be helpful in compressing the springs while you fiddle with the snap ring. But getting the snap ring pliers in under there wouldn't be fun.
How about cleaning, honing and inspecting the bore for pits? Can you see straight into it in the car?
posted by 64.223.241...
, Fri, 11 Feb 2005 17:41:40, Fri, 11 Feb 2005 12:48:51
, Fri, 11 Feb 2005 12:15:32
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