1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
First check that your problem is not with a sticky ebrake arm back at the wheel. You can reach under the rear to see if the arms move freely by hand. Usually the driver side arm freezes up first. Penetrant might free up but usually you will end up putting in new rear caliper(s)to fix the problem.
If the arms move freely, also see if you can move the cable in and out. Penetrant can also help free up a frozen cable. The ebrake lever in the car should move the cables in and out, have a helper pull the lever while you obsere under each wheel.
If all is well and you pull the lever in the car all the way up and it still doesn't lock the rear wheels, then you should adjust the rear brake calipers. There is a hex bolt on each caliper that covers a 4mm allen nut. Jack up a rear corner and pull the wheel to get at the caliper. Remove the adjuster cover bolt and tighten the allen screw until the rotor spins only with resistance. Then back off the allen screw just enough to allow the rotor to move without significant resistance. Note that the pads will still make light contact with the rotor. Do this on both sides and then I'll bet your ebrake works fine. I think the lever in the car should go up about 7 clicks to be full tight.
If you don't like the position of the lever when the ebrakes are on, now you can adjust the cable. The easiest way to get to the adjusters is to remove the top cover of the shift console. Remove the rear ashtray and unscrew the two screws to be able to lift uup the cover. The adjusters are now visible. Screw in or out as appropriate. I left the cable adjustment for last, because I have a hunch that your problem is elsewhere.
posted by 68.37.183...
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