1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
This has to be something simple, but I can't figure out what. Yesterday I had big plans for driving around doing stuff, but I wanted to first install the clutch cover and reconnect the front mounted intercooler, both of which were removed or disconnected for the big tranny swap from last week. So I started the car up and moved it back some 5 feet for better access to the entire front of the car. That's an important point - the car did start yesterday morning.
OK, for me to put the clutch cover back on I had to lift a part of the wiring harness over the throttle housing. A bit too aggressive while doing so, I also pulled on the distributor plug wire and snapped that fragile plastic plug on the distributor. Alright, just one more thing to fix today I grumbled. I fixed it with a fiberglass resin gel/chopped glass mix, and let it harden while I dealt with other things.
Once everything was back in place I tried starting the car and no ignition. Just the turning motor. That led to a one, twice, thrice over of all the associated ignition wires and components. Still nothing. I tested for spark and got nothing. A few things to know: I have an 86 16V engine mounted in my 82. It's mated with the older CIS fuel delivery system, plus it has the original 82 electronics and wiring. A very simple system, and previous to this, rather easy to diagnose and trace faults. To mate the 1982 distributor wiring to the 1990 distributor I'm using, I had to splice the 90 plug to the 82 wiring some 10 inches from the distributor. That's the only customizing of the ignition system I've done, and it's been driving that way since May of 04.
One possible theory is that I must have shorted something - either the coil or the hall effect control unit at either the wire splice point, or when the plug snapped free from the distributor and one of the metal prongs on it's rear touched the distributor body. Those wires are connected to the rotating advance/retard disc inside the distributor, and have considerable play, so it's not likely I broke any of them free from the internal connections when the plug snapped. Mind you, the engine wasn't running at this point, but neither was the battery disconnected, so some sort of short may have happened between the distributor, Hall effect and the coil.
I tried: replacing the distributor with a distributor of unknown condition. It's connector plug had also been snapped, and even though I was able to connect the wiring and insulate the prongs at it's rear, the no start results were the same, so I don't know if that was a working distributor. I've had it on hand mainly for parts. I also replaced the coil with a used one. I did a wire continuity test with a multi-meter on all related distributor, Hall effect control unit, and coil wiring and all passed the test. No break in the wiring to be found anywhere. I also get 12v to the coil when the ignition is on. I also swapped the main ECU with a known good one. And I did the resistance check of both coils and they read slightly above spec at .9 (spec is between 0.52 and 0.76).
I'm hoping for a simple solution, and I do have a spare Hall effect control unit to swap in if that's the problem. I'm hoping I don't have to replace the distributor because I did in fact pull one of the wires free from the rotating disc inside the distributor when the plug snapped. I don't know If I'll be able to take that puppy apart to attempt a fix.
Anyone know the secrets of the Hall effect control unit? Mention of a fuse tucked inside it is made in the Haynes manual. Can the coil suddenly go kaput? Any and all hints, help or advise is welcome.
posted by 207.200.116...
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