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You mentioned something about bleeding the clutch Posted by RS [Email]  (#15)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from RS) on Tue, 27 Sep 2005 12:42:01
In Reply to: Manual Transmission -- 1989 Saab 900, lilia, Mon, 26 Sep 2005 16:29:27 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I think this is a big part of the problem.
If the clutch doesn't disengage all the way, there will be engine torque transmitted to the transmission and that makes it difficult to put it into gear.
How high or low does the clutch pedal go before you feel resistance?
This might be a case where the master clutch cylinder needs to be replaced or rebuilt if bleeding it only works for a short time. BTDT. If you replace the master you will want to replace the clutch slave cylinder because the fresh fluid that fills the voids in the worn seals washes away and they start to leak. BTDT, too.
How many miles on the car?
A couple of other possibilities:
- the rubber bushing that keeps the shift rod (which runs from the shifter assembly to the transmission) has failed letting the rod move from side to side instead of twisting. You can remove the accordian filler in front of the shifter and see if the rod goes from side-to-side as you move the shift lever right-to-left. Replacing the bushing requires takign the console apart, taking the shifter assembly off, and disassembling it.
- Loose shifter. there are 3 torx screws that hold the shifter into the shifter assembly. When they loosen, you can get bad shifting. You need to peel the shift boot off the console and look in to see. Pulling the shifter up to test for excessive looseness will be a quicky test.
- Bad shift coupler. This is underneath the car. You'll want to have somebody look at this. Replacing it is a nasty, greasy job.
, Tue, 27 Sep 2005 12:42:01 <-- Viewing This Message
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