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I may not be the smartest guy in the world, but I think I can follow directions when they are given to me.
I put a new AMM on two weeks ago. A rebuilt unit. Followed the bently manual and checked the O2 sensor voltage with the black wire conected and got a fluctuating reading swinging around .5 volts. Took it to have the car E-checked and failed with very high NOx.
OK, I tried adjusting the AMM, got rid of all vacuum leaks, put in a new O2 sensor. Found a VOLVO proceedure where you make this test light and hook it to the green wire on the LH test socket which goes to pin 22 on the LH control unit and adjust the AMM until the light blinks evenly. Couldn't get there with the new AMM unless the car was idleing with the fans running. Echecked again and car was just as bad, high NOx. Fail is ~ 1300, tested was ~2400.
Yank the new AMM and put in the old AMM. Was able to adjust the new AMM to get the light to blink off and on. This is the same thing where you hook a meter to it and adjust until the meter swings between 0 and batery voltage. So I'm there now. FYI the old AMM, the one I put BACK in failed with high NOx but it was like 1450.
Now my questions.
Is there anyone, anyone at all, that can explain what having the voltage swing from 0 to ~12 is actually doing or means?
Is it possible to adjust the AMM to get a fluctuating voltage from the O2 sensor without it being plugged in to the harness?
The green connector to the O2 sensor will emit a fluctuating voltage with the O2 sensor removed. Whats up with that?
Does anyone think that now that I have that light blinking (voltage swinging) that I've actually richened up the mixture and will pass?
Does anyone have a definative test? Because I have officially tried everything and unless its the turbo itself is leaking then there are NO vacuum leaks and there are no sensors left to replace. All wiring has been checked and my spare LH control unit works exactly the same.
posted by 216.23.59...
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