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Re: won't start in the cold Posted by Saana88 [Email]  (#207)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Saana88) on Sat, 17 Dec 2005 09:02:00
In Reply to: won't start in the cold, popoquira, Thu, 15 Dec 2005 15:34:12 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Welcome to frigid temperatures. I've just moved out here too, and starting my car every morning monday through thursday was brutal.
There are a few things I do to help the car start when it's so ridiculously cold. First, be sure you have a strong battery. The laws of physics (chemists, really) prevent a battery from holding charge at cold temperatures. Seven years ago (!) I went into a local auto parts store and bought the largest battery that would fit ($75). Like I said, that was seven years (and four cars) ago.
Now that your battery is good, and assuming the belts are tight, you've got a good charge. The next step is 5W-30 in the crankcase. This may not be enough even. Anytime below five degrees or so, my 900 starts and then stalls immediately, and the oil pressure light stays on for the brief time (around a second) that the engine's running. The second time she stays running, but the oil pressure light won't go out until a second after she starts. It is extremely difficult to get (even 5W) oil to flow under those conditions. Since you have a 16 valve motor, it's even more important that you get oil up to the valve lifters sooner. Now on to the next step- coolant mixed at the right proportions will prevent a total disaster. Don't bother changing it (remember it's cold out) unless you suspect its neglect. Change your coolant every other year or so, and I don't use recycled coolant. The important part is having enough anti-freeze you don't crack things. And the final step is using some sort of fuel additive; I run one through every oil change, and I'm picky. Just about any additive is mostly alcohol, which will break down any water that's in there. A related item is to use a good grade of gasoline; I tend to use the same brand all the time just because I know I'm keeping about the same profile of additives going through all the time, important for keeping your fuel filter clear. Every gasoline (for motor fuel at least) has to have detergents added, it's just a question of what kind and how much they use. And if you live really close by (I'm 12019) I can actually recommend a few gas stations to avoid. Around Labor Day I saw what I percieved to be a steal- gas at only 2.60 a gallon, so I filled up.
WORST GASOLINE EVER! I swear it had plenty of water and nowhere near 87 octane in it; the knock sensor on my engine was working so hard it had zero power and threatened to stall repeatedly. I won't go back even though it's on the way to work. My next tank of gas was $3.20 a gallon and I freely paid for it after working as much of the watery gas out as I could. And big surprise- after that fill-up, the engine ran fine.
Optional: fresh, synthetic gear oil makes shifting a lot easier and quicker and less damaging to your synchos when it's that cold out. For the first five minutes on the road, shift very, very slowly and gently.
Best o'luck, and if you want to stop by, I'll swap some Saab stories with you while you help to bleed my left rear brake caliper.
It doesn't matter which way you park; uphill/downhill only matters if you're driving a Chrysler product.
, Sat, 17 Dec 2005 09:02:00 <-- Viewing This Message
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