1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
 | [Main C900 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Re: Automatic door lock tests Posted by CMyles [Email]  (#1126) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from CMyles) on Sat, 17 Dec 2005 19:16:02
In Reply to: Re: Automatic door lock problem, Earl, Sat, 17 Dec 2005 15:07:47 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
OK Earl here's the tests that I would do on this car to isolate the problem. Keep in mind that the most common defect in this system is wiring and connectors at the A pillar, drivers side, and that would certainly cause this problem, but so would some other defects. Test 1: Reach into the A pillar by the drivers door and find the 3 pin connector. Pull it apart and on the MALE connector connect a jumper to the pin with the brown wire. Now touch that jumper to the pin with the blue wire for a second. Doors should lock. If they do then touch the jumper (while still connected to the brown wire) to the brown and white striped wire. Doors should unlock. If that works then you've just proven that the problem is with the door switch/circuit. If you get no action from test #1 then do... test #2: Get a needle type circuit tester and clamp its' cord to ground. Poke it into the green wire on pin #4 of the control unit and see if it lights up. This is where the control unit gets 12 volts from fuse #24. (Also, the black wire from the control unit must be securely grounded). If so then poke the tester into the brown/white striped wire on control unit pin #8. Have a freind (unless you are really limber) connect the brown and blue wires at the door pillar connector. You should see the tester flash for a second or so. That's the current that is supposed to lock the actuators. Now stab the tester into the violet wire of pin #7 and have your freind connect the brown and brown/white striped wires at the pillar connector. Test light should flash for a second. That's unlocking. If you get the tester to flash but the locks don't work then it's an actuator or wiring problem. If the tester doesn't flash (and the control unit has 12 volts and good ground) then the control unit is bad. Avoid testing the actuating motors with a current source other than a control unit. Good luck.
posted by 206.123.221...
, Sat, 17 Dec 2005 11:41:10, Sat, 17 Dec 2005 19:16:02 <-- Viewing This Message, Fri, 16 Dec 2005 17:11:52
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
