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Also assuming an 89, before you mess with a valve, the most practical way to increase boost is to tweak the APC box, which is screwed to the outside of the driver's side inner fender wall. This box can be taken apart to reveal a printed circuit board. Look for 3 small holes exposing small screws controlling potentiometers. Don't touch the K screw to preserve fullknock protection. Turn the F screw about 1/4 turn clockwise and then turn the P screw until it is just about straight up and down. Go for a test drive and monitor boost at WOT. If you hit the knock limiter and get boost pulsing, back off the adjustments a bit. If you get boost overrun that eventually settles down, you turned the P screw too much.
You also should set your base boost to between 5-6 psi. Unless recently set, your bse boost will probably be about 3 psi. A cheap calibrated boost gauge teed into any small intake hose and with the hose snaked into the cabin will let you read base boost while test driving. To limit car to base boost simply pull the plug out of the APC solenoid located up near the coil. The base boost is increased by shortening the control rod to the wastegate. Loosen locknut when cool and give threads a shot of penetrant. Be sure to hold control rod collar with a pliers while you turn in the rod to avoid tearing the wastegate control module diaphram.
Another free tweak is to file a bit off the distributor retard limiter to get a bit more retard under boost. Then you set base timing to between 18-20 BTDC to compensate for adjustment to the stop. This will let you run higher boost without bumping up against the knock limiter.
Regarding fuel mixture you should go to a 3.0 fpr. It's the stock regulator on non-turbo 900's.
Then, maybe higher capacity injectors. After that I would start fooling with wastegate control hose valves like the Dawes device.
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