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Door lock intermitent malfunction? Posted by Saana88 [Email]  (#207)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Saana88) on Thu, 16 Feb 2006 14:29:36
In Reply to: Pass door lock intermitant malfunction?, Canada Karl, Wed, 15 Feb 2006 19:13:15 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I have had this; even stiff pressure pulling on the lock knob won't move it. Mine happens in really cold weather. You can rule out the lock cylinder; it's independent. The actuator can be moved with hand force even if it's powered up, and it's not because the control unit will blow its fuse if it's stuck on for too long (not to mention your battery would be dead in short order.) So that gets down to the problem, which I just cured on the driver's side of my '88. Certain substances which were grease in the late 1980s are no longer so and the latch mechanism is hanging up.
The following assumes that nothing is interfering with the operation of the latch. Before you start, you may want to inspect it to be sure that remnants of the plastic which originally covered the door panel is not stuck and binding up. You know, simple things that could save you time. If all looks in order, proceed with removal, cleaning, and re-lubricating the door latch assembly as follows:
1. Remove the door inner trim panel.
2. Disconnect the rods for the actuator, lock cylinder, and interior door pull.
3. Remove the door handle.
4. Loosen, but do not completely remove, both bolts/screws holding the rear end of the window regulator track to the rear edge of the door. If you need to remove these (especially the upper) to get the mechanism out, you may. Just don't get the fasteners all mixed up.
5. Remove the three bolts holding the door latch mechanism to the rear edge of the door, and fish it out of there. You'll need to rotate the latch closed by hand, then pull it into the door, then work it toward the outside surface and out it comes.
6. Blast it with parts washer, if you have one/some available, otherwise douse it with something that will dissolve the old grease.
7. Lubricate the twisting, rotating, and sliding surfaces with a low-temperature-suitable lubricant. I used liquid silicone (from the bottle marked "fuser oil") but anything except WD-40 should work most of the time. Straight motor oil will work fairly well, but just grease will not penetrate the inside surfaces enough to keep them from binding over time.
8. Reassemble, Stephanie.
Give yourself a couple hours and do the job right. As far as door latches go, I think it's pretty simple. I like the slip-pin connector between the latch and the inside door release handle. You won't see that in your new cars.
, Thu, 16 Feb 2006 14:29:36 <-- Viewing This Message
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