1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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Just completed new motor mounts with 200K mile, manual trans engine in place along with drivers side upper A-Arm bushings. Had engine idle body vibration... Order of difficulty: pass side, front, drivers side....Picture shows drivers side, with everything in the way, removed....engine now very, very smooth....
Pass Side: loosen 17mm mount center bolt, removed (2) 12mm mount mounting nuts and washers (easily reached from above eng compartment, jacked engine up with 2-1/4 ton lift under trany to clear 12mm mount studs, remove center bolt, swap out mount with center bolt, lower engine, replace mount nuts and washers.
Front Mount: battery disconnected and terminals protected. remove ign coil, intake warm up bypass duct, pass side radiator fan housing. Cardboard sheet on back face of radiator for protection, remove two vertical 12mm mount bracket bolts with spacers, remove front 12mm pass side engine skid plate bolt and rotate skid enough to place jack with wood block under trany. Jack up trany enough to expose 55mm torx head mount center bolt, remove mount center bolt, remove upper and lower mount C-clamp 12mm bolts (I used a 1/4" 12mm socket drive with 1-1/2" extension to fit into the lower space), remove old mount and place new mount into position with flat portion of mount case facing down and cage notch facing into side of trany and toward right side of car.) Reverse removal procedure for reassembly.
Driver Side: Yes..with engine in car..AC compressor remains in place
Battery disconneted,drain oil, drain cooling water, and brake fluid.. remove oil filler tube (careful it may be brittle), oil filter, oil filter housing (will need new gasket), alternator, cooling water expansion tank, master brake cylinder (remember to disconnect clutch master cylinder hose and move aside. Unbolt (2) 12mm mount mounting nuts and washers from below (fairly easy reach from space between engine and drive shaft tunnel with 3/8 drive and swivel, lossen 17mm mount center bolt, lift engine with wood block on trany bottom to clear enough removal space between mount bracket and A-Arm cross bolt (1-1 1/2" rise). Surprise for me was mount bracket ends were internally slotted for mount cross sleeve positioning...cuts down on the amount of mount twishing space within backet). Remove mount center 17mm bolt and install new mount. Reverse removal procedure for reassembly.
A-Arm bushings...good time for these and alternator bushings..Upper A-arm bushing done one at a time with drivers wheel off car and drivers supension just hanging. No spring compression if done one at a time...Take care to handle and may sure the bracket shims are replaced exactly as removed. Only one of my bushings were rusted to the A-Arm. I cut off the end lip rubber of the old bushing and was able to drive the housing off the old bushing. Then grabbed the rusted center sleeve with vise grips and lossen sleeve until it slid off...Used bench vise to press in new bushings and extract old ones with bolt/nut arrangement with vise. A-Arm can be repositioned with heavy long screw driver or bar for bracket/shim remount.
posted by 71.241.3...
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