1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Hi all,
The new (old) 1986 Turbo I bought the other day had a drivers window that was stuck closed. The seller implied it might just be the switch. Knowing how rusty the pivots get on these, it's standard practice for me to pull the regulator assembly and thoroughly wash down the pivots and re-oil them and use white lithium grease on the rails and gears.
In this case, I applied 12V to the motor and nothing happened. OK. Implies motor is shot. I pulled the works apart. Washed out the worm assembly and pulled the motor apart. Continuity from each winding on the armature was 0.3 ohms so no problem with a shorted or open winding.
The brushes looked fine with lots of travel. Commutator a bit corroded so I chucked it up on the lathe and fine sanded the commutator. Then I checked continuity from the terminals to the brushes.
AH HA! Turns out there's a tiny bimetal strip circuit breaker in series with one of the brushes. Says Made in Britain. Looks like a rectangular polyester capacitor. Luckily, it came apart. Turns out the spot weld for the bimetal part let go and therefore the motor was open circuit.
I've posted an image of the circuit breaker. If someone has a defective motor with a functional breaker that they'd be willing to part with I'd really appreciate it. I'm going to try and find a place with a spot welder or try and make a tiny copper or brass rivet as one possible repair. Beats paying for a junk yard motor.
John Dammeyer
posted by 24.69.6...
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