1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Good information. I would question the motor oil thou... it's hydralic and uses a specific fluid. my dealer had a five gallon container and gave me some. I filled up two 500ml water bottles and kind you screw the top on and see everywhere. I've done three motors needing fluid and still have leftovers. It's a shell product.
on the slow top symptom. have you had it blow the fuse located on the fenderwell under the hood? If no skip to bottom, but if you have...
I've fixed about 10 of these. It's always been the brushes in the motor, on a couple had issues with the armature too. A couple had been leaked into (water) and were rusted pieces of... rust.
I'll have to create a write up for this. basically you need to remove rear seat. Older models have the mentioned four torx under the lip, newer ones have clip ins and just pull up.
There is the motor, you need to pull it, the four rubber isolators will pull out of the holes they are pushed into. there are two major portion of the unit, the white plastic end with fluid and pump impeller in it, and the silver metal portion with the motor. Guess what???? you can unbolt the silver metal motor portion, two screws at the end of the unit WITHOUT COMPROMISING THE PUMP END AT ALL! The two ends are connected via the shaft (armature of the electric motor) and it's keyed and plugs into the pump. So, if you are ok on fluid level, and aren't leaking any fluid, it's the motor at fault. Unscrew the two bolts at the round end of the motor, they go all the way to the middle area at of the unit. the entire motor end will then pull off. A couple of notes there are notches and guides where everything lines up so look closely to see them for reassymbley. two permanet magnets mounted in the metal shell make it like dealing with a game, but you want to pull everything out. Some models have a disconnect on the two wires, if your's does not you can cut them (red and white) and use the twist on joiners you've seen at home stores, it's larger gauge wire. Look closely at the round end that contains the brushes, usually one is worn alot more than the other. often it just barely touches the comutator. You need to go to a rebuild it machine shop, someone that does alternators works well. Get them to turn the comutator just like they would on an alternator. brushes are more difficult to source, but get a pair that has the same orientation of the flexible wire on it, and long enough wires for you to solder back on. If you can't get exact fit (if you do send me some?) get a little larger rather than smaller, we will sand to fit. I then SAND the brush to fit the opening in the holder. After a few times I struck upon this solution: I us a set of visegrips, grasp the brush at the point where sanding should stop to cover the appropriate thickness to leave, and use a dremel moto tool with the drum sander attachment. I make passes back and forth getting closer the jaws of the visegrip, knowing that is my stop. then turn the brush 90 degrees and again clamp to expose on the stuff I want gone.. repeat for other brush. The I get out the soldering iron and solder and R & R the brushes (remove and replace). Putting the thing back together is the hard part. You may wish for two additional, but smaller, hands. Take your time note where the keys are on the barrel, the end cap, and the part you are screwing into, once you recognize all of them then you only have to fight the permanet magnets to get it in. Also several towels doubled over to cover that damn metal shelf help!
If you open it up to discover mass quantities of Rust, this would be the guys that don't work at all, do a junkyard run and take motors out until you find one that is not rusty. remember, you only need the motor end unless you have been leaking. costs less to get it out of the yard!
The motors are interchangable from all of the years I've personally done, 88-93. Have not done a 1994 yet.
Bottom: for those that got to skip to here. But you could still read the procedure just in case...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
