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Re: replacing primary chains in car Posted by CMyles [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: replacing primary chains in car, Paul Bob, Sat, 14 Oct 2006 21:52:36 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Paul Bob,
Your plan should work. It's gonna be a little tight workin in there. You can lock it in 2 gears either by shifting into a gear (1-4) and then pulling the pin from the fifth gear fork (after you remove the cover) and sliding the fork back or by removing the reverse shifter link and sliding the reverse idler back (after removing the other side cover). The big nut on the input shaft will be staked in 3 places and the quick way to defeat that is to drive a square faced punch, about 3/16" diameter, into the pockets. That breaks the inward "dimples" clean off of the nut flange. You'll have to swing a hammer down in there somehow to do that. That nut will probably be "Loctited" too so you'll need a long wrench to unscrew it and maybe some very carefully applied heat (kinda dangerous, last resort). If the upper chain wheel bearing is seized up then after it's out take a hard look at the aluminum arbor on which it resides. It may be ground-down on its' top surface, then you're screwed (sorry). All things considered, with a tranny at only 90K and some noise coming from near the top of the chain case you should take a look at the hydraulic chain tensioner as soon as you get the cover off. Pour some 10w30 in the well on its' top side and try to pump up pressure in the "shoes". If you can't get the shoes to spread with enough force to tension the chains then unscrew the 2 bolts that secure the tensioner assembly and the plate behind it, take it out and get it working or replace it. There's an oil inlet check ball that could be stuck. Put thread sealant on the bolts before replacing them or you'll have an oil leak. Good luck.
posted by 206.123.221...
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