1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
If you are doing the fronts on a 92...
This is how I've done it. The magic tool I have is a motocycle tire iron, you purchase them in pairs to change MC tires, usually the dirt bike stores/department is where to get them. SB about $15 or so for the longer good ones. The important part is that there is a hook at one end... it keeps the piviot point of the lever off the smooth stuff and moves it inside on the rotor to the strong point.
remove the caliper, remove the outer pad, put back together loosely, put the tireiron under the portion of the caliper over the rotor so that the hook is pointing towards the rotor, and contacts the innermost area of the rotor (it should be a portion that does not get swept by the pad, but is right up against a strong inner area). pull the tire iron towards you and hold. think like you are pulling on a spring... gorilla pulling is a no no, force over time is the idea... the piston assymbley should move and the open area SB larger.
remove caliper and fit the new inner pad onto the piston (has those three clip thingies?), refit the caliper and do the tire iron thing again...
remove caliper and see if both new pads will now fit. they should.
you can also add the following but must do it exactly!
you need a friend with a strong leg, a runner not a weight lifter kind of strong.
put the caliper back together and on the car with the one new pad as above AND PUT THE TIRE IRON ACROSS AS BEFORE, TOUCHING THE ROTOR.
have friend put the brake pedal down and HOLD IT until step below.
you turn the BLEED nipple on the caliper - your helper will note the pedal goes to the floor STAY ON IT - you will note fluid squirting - do the tire iron pull again, it should squirt more and the movement will be the maximum you will get. tighten the screw. Helper may now release the pedal. remove caliper and fit outer pad, refit caliper. if it still doesn't fit you have an incorrect something!
after you have correctly completed this, make sure the brake fluid res is topped off correctly, if you friend is still around... you can do a mini brake bleed as follows. have your friend pump pump pump HOLD. you open and then close the bleed nipple. repeat a couple of times. if you see splatter rather than stream of fluid comming out you are getting the air out. you are looking to see solid stream of fluid. sometimes this will not necessary at all, this means you did the earlier step perfectly! make sure your helper HOLDS until you tighten the nipple. do the other side *** CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL before doing other side. (for the advanced audience - yes, this isn't a "correct" brake bleed, however the assumption is that any air is in the length of brake line adjacent to the caliper and was caused when nipple was opened and then closed to get that last RCH of movement from the piston. So the air is in the immediate few inches of the line adjacent to the caliper. This is if the method was followed exactly, and it's really not that difficult to do.)
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
