1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
 | [Main C900 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Who, me? Posted by Saana88 [Email]  (#207)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Saana88) on Thu, 4 Jan 2007 16:22:53
In Reply to: 86 900s d/s lites - help Saana88, jtm, Wed, 3 Jan 2007 14:10:49 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I fixed my cornering/parking light last weekend. Mine was a bad, bad case of a rotten and corroded contact, which required a "new" (from a '91 junkyard donor) assembly spliced in. Three connections and it was done.
Now on to your case...
Ah, 1986. Probably my favorite year for 900s because they still had the older look but got the side turn indicators. According to the wiring diagram (Bentley 8 valve book, page 371-3), the following lights should be controlled by your fuse number 19:
left (driver's side) parking lights (front amber turn signal low power, front inboard parking light between the headlight and grille, and the red tail lights in the rear)
Sounds to me like you either have three or four coincidental bulbs burnt out (very, very unlikely!) or your fuse number 19 needs to be replaced. It should be a 10 amp fuse. Don't forget they cast little numbers in the fusebox next to the fuses' seats so you can find the one you want without having to count each time. Also, there should be a white clip-like fuse extracting tool in there. You may need a few of these fuses before you're done. Check the old fuse after you remove it to be sure it's blown and that there is no corrosion on the contacts in the fusebox. A good fuse will have a karat-shaped (^) hoop between the two blades; a blown fuse will have to pieces that used to form that link. This is the part that overheats and breaks when too much current flows through it.
This may also be a good time to inspect the wiring that runs from a harness out to the back of the parking lights to be sure you don't see any exposed wire or chafed insulation. A quick wrap with electrical tape may save you a few fuses.
After replacing it, if the fuse burns out immediately, you have a short circuit somewhere in the wiring there. If that is the case, it gets a little more complicated. Start by removing all the bulbs on that circuit (two tail lights, one amber parking light, and the clear inboard lamp between the grille and headlight bezel) and put them back in one by one and tell us when the fuse blows. Be sure nothing conductive is stuck in the front or rear light sockets or on the rear circuit board. That could short out and blow your fuse in a hurry, not to mention what it does to your car.
I've already checked the wiring between the ignition switch and the headlight switch, and from the headlight switch to the fusebox- if that was bad you wouldn't get either side.
The glorious part about these old-fangled cars (900s at least) is the simplicity and over-redundancy in the electrical systems. Your car is twenty-two years old and you're fixing a problem found in newer cars at a year or so of age. Go out and count how many new cars you see with at least one bulb failed, license plate lights included. That's entertainment! Not to mention the electrical contacts are teensy nowadays. Redundancy is great. Five huge, brilliant brake lights, four back-up lights, six turn signals (if only other drivers would *notice* them!) and so on.
Fuse 19!
If this doesn't work, write it up and we can diagnose bad grounds and try to figure out where the wire with worn-away insulation (causing a short circuit to the carbody) is.
Good luck!
, Thu, 4 Jan 2007 16:22:53 <-- Viewing This Message
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
