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Re: Convertible problems Posted by Saana88 [Email]  (#207)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Saana88) on Tue, 27 Feb 2007 16:24:59
In Reply to: Convertible problems, Harry, Tue, 27 Feb 2007 14:20:46 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I don't know what to tell you about your power steering until you fix the leak. It may not pressurize due to lack of fluid or you may have other issues. When the line is repaired, try flushing the fluid by disconnecting the return line and draining it into a suitable container whilst feeding fresh fluid to the reservoir. An assistant will be useful here because you are going to have your hands full (literally) of fluid. Have the assistant run the motor (thus spinning the power steering pump and circulating fluid) and steer the wheel from side to side, stop to stop, to purge air from the system.
2. "Holding In" I assume you mean hesitating. First, check all the rubber vacuum lines running about the engine compartment. If in doubt, consider replacing the lot. These rubber hoses last from three to five years, and the myriad of problems brought about when they leak are not worth trying to extend that interval. Get bulk hose from an auto parts store of the same diameter and cut new lines to the same length as the existing ones. Do one at a time so you do not get confused. After that is done, if the problem persists, I'd turn to the fuel filter next as they are often neglected. It is located above the rear axle. After this, check for additional vacuum leaks around the fuel injectors and check to be sure the intake manifold gasket is sealing.
When that is done, if you still have acceleration problems, check the fuel pressure regulator (average lifespan for me has been 150k) since this will make the car run very rich if the internal diaphragm fails. If none of these solve the problem, take some readings from the oxygen sensor with a digital voltmeter and tell us what you get.
3. Don't interchange idle control motors, also known as the Air Idle Control (AIC) valve. Using the correct one for your motor, spray some penetrating oil inside to see if you can free up the valve that way. When these get sticky, it could stick shut (thus not enough airflow through to establish the proper idle) or open (idle around 2000 RPM) or on both ends (idle oscillating from 500 to 2500 RPM).
Be sure you disconnect the vacuum line at the distributor and plug it when setting the timing. Or at least you need to with older 8 valve cars.
After that is done, remove the rubber boot between the air mass meter and the throttle valve. Using a suitable solvent, clean out all deposits in the throttle bore. The valve is supposed to get very close to shutting entirely, but still allow very little air past so the engine still idles, with the AIC valve fine-tuning things. If and when this valve is constricted with deposits, it starves the motor for air at idle.
, Tue, 27 Feb 2007 16:24:59 <-- Viewing This Message
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