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Re: Dead Fuel Pump Walking
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Posted by RS [Email] (#15) [Profile/Gallery] (more from RS) on Sun, 25 Mar 2007 20:07:30 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: Dead Fuel Pump help, stinsonad, Sun, 25 Mar 2007 17:44:09
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The link below takes you to instructions for a 9000, but the differences between that and yours are small. Bentley also has some decent instructions.

First, get your replacement pump. (I had to say it. :-)

Once you get that, get everything out of the trunk. If you're like me, that's a weeks work in itself. Then remove the spare tire cover - You'll see 2 Torx screws in black grommets forward of the hinge. Undo those and work the spare tire cover out of the back.

Then unhook your battery negative cable. Extinguish all incendiaries.

Now, you can pry up the circular fuel pump cover from the trunk floor. You'll see the top of the fuel pump - it should look just like the picture that Landjet linked you to.

Now we begin the surgery... Pull the electrical connection from the top of the pump. Unscrew the retainer ring (I use a large screwdriver and a hammer to tap the retainer ring loose because, like most of us, I don't have the special tool. You can finish unscrewing it by hand when it's loose.) Then, unscrew the fuel hose retainer, remove that, put a cloth over the two hose connectors and pull each of them up. The cloth will keep fuel from spraying all over.

The trick that I found with R&R-ing one of those fuel pumps is, once you've removed the retainer ring and the hoses, is to push down with the heel of one hand and peel the rubber seal ring up with the other. Then the pump can be maneuvered out. Be very careful not to drop the seal ring into the tank.

You'll find that you can't put the new pump assembly in if you have the seal ring on the top - that's because the seal ring wedges the pump up against the opening when the retainer ring is tightened.

You put the pump assembly in the tank in the same orientation as the old one came out. Push it in, then put the seal ring on the edge of the pump assembly and stretch it over the edge. That may take a bit of doing. When it's stretched on evenly, it will stay in position. You can let the spring on the pump assembly push it up against the opening. Put the retainer ring on and tighten it. Be careful to keep the pump from turning as you tighten the ring. You'll need to tap it tight, the same way you loosened it.

Insert the fuel return and supply lines (push them down firmly) and screw on the retainer clip.

Put the electrical connector on and, if there is any fuel smell present let it dissipate. When you're ready, put the battery clamps on, tighten them and get ready to crank the engine. Have an assistant watch the fuel pump for leaks while you crank it.

If everything went well, it should fire up after a few cranks. It will probably sputter for a bit while any air that got in the lines feeds through the fuel rail.

Let it run for a bit and watch for leaks. If none, you can shut it down and finish putting the car back together.

I've been lucky in scrounging used pumps from pick-n-pulls but, if you have the funds, a new pump or pump insert are the way to go.

http://townsendimports.com/Web/engine_folder/walbro.htm

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