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Re: 5 speed shifter question Posted by Saana88 [Email] (#207) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Saana88) on Wed, 2 May 2007 19:26:41 In Reply to: 5 speed shifter question, grlyd, Tue, 1 May 2007 23:26:39 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Assuming you are still using the '88 shifter (a different design) use the '88 spec of 22 mm. If the rod is sticking out of the shifter too far, it cannot be lifted (by the reverse lockout detent) far enough and you're bound to have trouble finding reverse. The change in the shifters happened in 1991. Testing the reverse lockout is pretty simple- asjust it so you can't engage reverse without lifting the ring first and yet it should be easy to engage reverse with the collar lifted.
Also consider your gearbox lubricant, which fails with age, but moreso with heat. Since reverse is not synchronized, rotten fluid will do an even worse job, especially after the engine/gearbox case/fluid are warmed up. Don't even bother asking what gearbox lubricant is everyone's favorite on this board because you will get at least a dozen different responses. Since I beat everyone to the punch, I use the orange Saab synthetic (available from site sponsors). This fluid smoothed out first and reverse on my '92, but it also completely fixed a fifth gear block-when-warm issue.
So, use the '88 spec for your '88 shifter. If you are unsure which you have, look at the ball about which the shifter pivots. If it's two spring-loaded plastic hemispheres, you have your '88 shifter. If it's a metal ball that is tack welded to the lever in three places, you have the later style.
Your shift to reverse will be even smoother if you disengage the clutch for a long time before you shift into reverse (double-clutching reverse when you are moving at slow speed actually overdoes it!) and roll to a very slow speed, just barely moving (forward or back) and then engage reverse. If I've been coasting around in neutral, I find it occasionally difficult to engage reverse. By pushing the clutch pedal down, the transmission input part is stopped. By slowing down to where you are almost stationary, the transmission output part is barely moving, just enough to find the right space to engage the teeth of one to the teeth of another. Science! (not very wierd science)
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