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well i`ll tell you what i would do.... Posted by vvack0matic [Email]  (#1443) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from vvack0matic) on Sun, 15 Jul 2007 16:45:38
In Reply to: Air Condition 1985 SPG 900, george chiassion, Sun, 15 Jul 2007 15:27:59 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I'm going to cover everything from a vacuum leak of the motor and a a.c. leak of fluid in which case dose involve vacuum,
so let me get started...
vacuum leaks of the motor can be every and any where, the little vacuum lines run all over the car, in the motor bay and under the dash are their most location,
first part to consider in finding a leak is if there was any new work don't to the car, (installing new speakers, all the way to installing new feet pedals,.. but lets not forget oil changes.)
any recent work can be the prime case of a vacuum line being pulled and when hunting for the leak these are the areas that need to be checked very carefully.
have that said lets move on to other areas:
lets say a vacuum leak was under the dash:
before the dash was pulled to look for this leak there is a check that can be done (assuming this is the only leak)
this check will not work if there is a leak any-where else.
: start the motor and turn off all a.c. functions turn the blower motor off, and the selector set to 0,
with the doors of the car shut lean forward and place your ear next to the driver side speaker, then the passenger side speaker, listening for a very quiet hissing sound.
lean the driver-side seat back and get your head down by the feet pedals and then over to the passenger-side foot well,
turn the selector to front window vent mode (selector arrow up) and recheck for the sound, if there was a vacuum leak in the cab compartment after this check you would have located it.
(might i add, when the selector is set at (0) it will give a hiss sound of releasing pressure and will stop hissing with in 7 seconds,
if he hissing dose not stop when its on (0) the selector switch is bad.
now on to the motor.
with the motor running grab hold of the three way vacuum hose hook up attached to the intake manifold and give it a slight wiggle making sure to take notice if it gives off a hissing sound when wiggled, continue this with the valve cover vacuum hose adapter, make sure the one way check valve works.
next head over to the passenger side, above the road wheel you will notice the the bug washer fluid, looking behind this you will see a white looking tank. this is the vacuum tank
if this tank has a crack it will lead to a leak and with an extra added bonus it will keep the a.c. from working.
this vacuum tank has one little vacuum line running off the top of it.
check this vacuum line, unplug it from the tank,
reason being
if this vacuum hose dry-rotted on the end it will show upon closer inspection, and if the tanks little nossel had a crack in it, the nossel would break off the tank and remain inside the vacuum line.
showing the tank needs to be replaced.
everything involving this tank needs to be checked very well.
: another prime location for a vacuum leak is back over on the driver-side
while looking at the the radiator expansion tank you will notice several vacuum lines, at 200,000 miles they all need to be replaced.
take special note of the one that runs under the radiator expansion tank, this one is pron-ed to dry-rot, along with the one that runs to the firewall and runs the length of the front window, this one is pron-ed to dry-rot also.
now to the carburetor, there will be several vacuum lines running to it, go ahead and pull one off- look at the metal tube that the vacuum line was hooked to, reconnect the pulled line and proceed to look all over the carburetor looking for another one of these metal tubes that's sticking out with no vacuum line hooked to it.
if you found one, this will give a great vacuum leak and will keep the motor in base boost.
make sure the metal tube is plugged so that no air gets in.
this should some up the bulk of the motor compartment.
now on to a a.c. coolant fluid leak.
find out what coolant fluid you are using and run to the auto parts store.
they sell little cans of prefilled coolant, it also comes with a tube hook up, buy the can and proceed to your motor.
on or around the a.c. compressor you will see a inlet for the coolant.
go on and hook the can up and start to fill. if the coolant can is hooked up wrong, no fear, all that will happen is no coolant will leave from the can. while filling keep an eye and ear out for any hissing followed by a huge white geyser of mist, this would be where the a.c. leak is coming from.
(one more thing, do a visual check of all a.c. hoses, looking for vibration ware of the outer hose, or a hole.)
being persistent will only lead to finding a leak.
its a great game of cat and mouse,
one more thought, that vacuum line attacked to the vacuum tank should be zipped tied, along with the vacuum lines that hook up to the carburetor.
well look at that....
writing this post i wore off the white off my (w) key on the key board
.... but no worry, i got some white spray paint little squirt and it will be good as new.
posted by 71.40.138...
, Sun, 15 Jul 2007 16:45:38 <-- Viewing This Message
, Sun, 15 Jul 2007 21:24:12, Sun, 15 Jul 2007 20:14:04, Sun, 15 Jul 2007 18:29:17
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