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Worst part is getting to it.
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Posted by RayF (more from RayF) on Fri, 14 Dec 2007 15:26:13 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: you need to further diagnose problem first-, nicknick [Profile/Gallery] , Fri, 14 Dec 2007 12:43:50
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If it's truly a bad slave cylinder of course.
Get a Bentley manual, and also look up this routine on the townsendimports web site, very helpful.
The worst I mentioned is, removing all the turbo plumbing that's in the way and figuring out how to wrestle the plastic clutch cover off.
Then there are simple tricks for all the other stuff:
Pry off wire bail on front of tranny and sheet metal cover tips out and comes away. Then unscrew the M8 threaded nylon bolt and oil slinger from under that cover, and screw a long threaded-all-the-way M8 bolt with a couple of fender washers on it and a nut run up to the top, thru a fat socket into the end of the clutch shaft where that slinger was, then hold the bolt and run the nut down against the socket and keep turning and it pulls the clutch shaft out a ways into the interior of that socket (or a short collar of pipe or whatever). (There's a spring collar on that shaft that locks it in till it's pulled on stiffly.) Don't need to remove radiator, just pull that shaft well out.
Then if slave is bad you need to depress the clutch fingers somehow, what slave WOULD do if it could, to put a spacer in to hold the pressure plate released so you can remove the slave cylinder.
One trick I've read on here is, if you have a second slave cylinder, remove the hydraulic line to the bad one, and screw a second bleeder screw in in its place. Then pop a grease gun onto that as if it were a grease fitting and pump the grease gun and the grease, MUCH thicker than clutch hydraulic fluid, actuates the clutch. It CAN'T leak, not much at least, and will do the work you want done temporarily.
Another trick, that I've posted on here several times, is detailed if you do a search with the words "3 fat nuts." It involves removing every other one of the six pressure plate to flywheel bolts, loosening the other 3 almost all the way, then placing three fat nuts (I've used SAE 1/2"-13) under the three "ears" of the pressure plate forging where they stick out of the bell-shaped outer shell, and tighten the three remaining pressure plate to flyhweel bolts back down. That action jacks the pressureplate into released condition.
You'v got to go all the way and pull the clutch disk itself to get slave out. You'll need a spacer tool, sometimes called the Saab Special Tool, or make one out of a piece of 5-gal. plastic bucket handle, or heavy gauge copper wire, bent into a circle around 6' diameter as i recall. it fits under the circle of little projecting points on pressure plate housing, between them and the spring fingers that stick still further in and are acted on normally by the slave cylinder pushing the release bearing against them.
Then you've got to remove the three metric allen-headed bolts that hold the slave to the tranny. Not lots of fun. some have used a 1/4' hex drive short stubby bit kit with the right size allen key tip, others have cussed and done it a few degrees at a time with regular metric allen key. I THINK it's 5 mm. Says on line here that you can replace them later with short regular M6 10mm hex headed bolts.
Then slave, throwout bearing, pressure plate and clutch disk, packed together into a group, should just slip out.
You can get a kit to rebuild your slave, or if you're near a seals distributor you can buy the 3 metric o-rings needed for real cheap indeed (do a search on here) or buy a new slave cylinder. You could stop there if you know your clutch disk, throwout bearing and pilot bearing in flywheel are all good or if you just want to trust them and get it all back together. Some buy a kit of all of them plus the pressure plate itself. i don't think THAT ever goes bad but most places only sell a kit, not clutch disk alone, except Saab dealers.
Anyways on reassembly you'll have to bleed the clutch. Neatest trick to do that was posted on here by CMyles, push a long piece of clear poly tube onto bleeder screw, long enuf to hold enough fluid to fill slave and the entire line back to the reservoir (it shares the brake fluid reservoir) and fill that tube with brake fluid. Then wipe its end clean, crack bleeder, put your mouth on tube and blow into it and watch till bubbles stop appearing in brake fluid reservoir. Tighten bleeder.
Second neatest trick, shorter piece of clear tube, run from bleeder on slave to bleed screw on left front brake caliper. Crack both bleeders and go in and push on your brakes repeatedly till bubbles stop in reservoir. Tighten both bleed screws and remove tubing. I'd call this neatest except it uses the probably old dirty brake fluid in your caliper and brake lines, and adding to it a step of changing out all the brake fluid makes it too much work. But for a mechanic's quick trick it's tops. Note that it recirculates the fluid, thus no adding of brake fluid except topping up at beginning and end, next to none is spilled except what's inside the short piece of tubing. And you can't overdo it or leak air into the brakes. Keep pumping brake pedal all day if you want to. Can't remember who posted this.


posted by 70.105.247...
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