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Re: installing an engine Posted by Justin VanAbrahams [Email]  (#32) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Justin VanAbrahams) on Thu, 27 Dec 2007 15:57:04
In Reply to: Re: installing an engine, PhilB, Thu, 27 Dec 2007 15:09:06 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Just removing the fans and coil, and putting a thick piece of cardboard in front of the radiator should be plenty to get that engine in. Removing the radiator/upper crossmember is pretty risky (IMHO) since there is always the possibility of damaging the captured nuts in the lower crossmember... they rust and removal of the bolts can be a chore. I'd leave that stuff alone unless there is a specific reason not to.
The oil cooler can be a hassle, but the trick is to remove the 3 long bolts that secure the whole housing to the block and NOT removing the lines from the housing. It means replacing a small, cheap gasket - but having a new gasket is never a bad thing, and removal of those three long bolts is absolutely trivial with a wobble extension. You get a new gasket and don't have to worry about getting the angle of the metal lines right on reassembly.
Working on your Saab really can't be about time - if time is your critical resource you'd be leaving it to a pro anyway. But, there is no reason yanking an engine should take more than three or four hours (unless you have shift coupler issues... grrrrr), and there's little reason to make more work or take more chances than necessary. One of the really appealing things about the c900 is exactly how serviceable it is with a minimum of tools.
Remove the hood and put it on the roof. Yank the fans and the coil, disconnect BOTH the upper ball joints and pull the driveshafts from the inner drivers, disconnect the shift coupler and the speedo cable, drain coolant and oil, remove the oil filter housing, undo the upper and lower radiator hoses and the heater core hoses, remove the intercooler and intake plumbing, disconnect a bunch of wiring, disconnect the fuel feed and return lines, remove the A/C compressor and set it on the windshield (GENTLY!), cinch in the alternator, undo the motor mounts, and start pulling the motor out. After you've cleared a couple inches, detach the power steering pump from its mounts and lay it on the rack, and finish pulling the motor out.
If you've still got hydraulics, you may want to pull the clutch with the engine still in the car, but honestly the "three big nut" trick works so well there's little reason to. Having full 360-degree access to the engine/tranny while they're on the ground makes that job a snap, too.
If you're a hard worker, and everything goes perfectly, it's three hours...
posted by 207.15.18...
, Thu, 27 Dec 2007 13:10:42, Thu, 27 Dec 2007 15:57:04 <-- Viewing This Message
, Thu, 27 Dec 2007 22:25:37
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