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oh yeah! the spg lives again... couple of comments- Posted by nicknick [Email]  (#731) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from nicknick) on Thu, 3 Apr 2008 22:17:36
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ok-replaced trans today (well, finished it today...) runs like a top!
couple of points that may be useful to future trans-swappers...
bently says to pull starter-not required.
i pulled slave cylinder hose instead of the entire clutch, used the normal bucket handle deal to hold back the the pp, but it was much less of a fight to to bleed the clutch than actually remove the entire unit (i replaced it with an upgraded SD clutch a few weeks back-works perfect, BTW). all the posts that say you need to pump the pedal 30-50 times are absolutely correct-the slave is nothing like bleeding brakes, for some reason...
i removed the alt adjuster for pulling and installing because that threaded end is just waiting to smash the brake fluid res.
i pulled the rad. it makes it sooo much easier-gives a nice amount of room, plus i don't get scared about damaging a perfectly good rad.
i dealt with the axles by popping both top balljoints (removed the bolts), as in both sides. heck, it only takes like 4 minutes total, and there is one less thing to worry about when putting the puppy back in. did the brake pad under top suspension arm as well, just to be sure.
i installed a 456-10 trans. this has a lower final drive than the 14 that someone else had put in. i strongly recommend that anyone buying a trans looks into what they are buying (i didn't, and while i didn't have much of a choice, i also can change it again in the future for a total cost of like $25 in gaskets +trans). fixmysaab has the breakdown of final drive ratio and pinion size. i am less happy with the shorter final drive ratio, but i will happily live with it (life is a compromise, right?)
this was a great time to do the cv boots. took about 12 minutes for the one that was looking old.
the shifter coupler is really easy to get to from above once the ps belt is out. it doesn't want to seperate 100% until you start to pull the lump, and you need to get it located before it is fully back in place (don't go pulling that hoist out of the way in a hurry!)
i really hate how the c900's have sooo many places that catch 'bits' in a way that you cannot even see them-have a magnetic tool on hand all the time-saves alot of frustration!
the best tool i have is a short, 13mm, ratcheting wrench. it deals with all the PS nuts/bolts, and many others. cost like $10, is the only ratchet wrench i have, but the only one you really should have (IMO).
the best way to lock the flywheel i have found is a short ext placed on the edge of the trans-kind of in line with the edge of the flywheel, with the open end on the trans case, right above the clutch housing cover bolt hole, and the square end on the clutch pp-this may not work with different clutch types, but worked great for me! (both undoing, and torquing the crank pulley)it is difficult to explain the exact location-hope it helps though.
i did the oil pump cover gasket (was dry as hell, came out in 4 pieces!), crankshaft end front oil seal (pulley end) primed oil pump through filter housing, a couple of bushings, cv boots, engine mounts, belts, HG was recent, clutch was also,hoses were all checked out ok, replaced a couple of vac hoses along the way, new oil/filters/fluids all around, ball joints were recent.
took about 10 hours total.
i have an over head sliding hoist i made, and it makes everything real quick/easy.
ok, SIS tomorrow-needs a hg to get running just to see what else it needs... sleep now.
posted by 70.192.15...
, Thu, 3 Apr 2008 22:17:36 <-- Viewing This Message
, Sat, 5 Apr 2008 07:22:25
, Fri, 4 Apr 2008 03:02:04, Fri, 4 Apr 2008 06:33:26
, Fri, 4 Apr 2008 19:11:51, Sat, 5 Apr 2008 10:35:09
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