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Nicked Aluminum trans pan Posted by Arabiflora [Email] (#1129) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Arabiflora) on Mon, 21 Apr 2008 00:06:17 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
In an effort to prolong the life of the automatic trans in my '93 Arkansaab (218k miles) I recently changed the trans filter. Upon replacement of trans pan (with new gasket, of course), I overtorqued two retaining bolts and popped their heads off (never use a torque wrench while under the influence).
Given that there are 11 such bolts, I figured (at the time) that two less would do no harm and so drove it for ~200 mi with no problems except for that haunting feeling that comes from a job not well done... and a persistent trans fluid puddle under the car.
So this weekend I go back at it, drain the trans and drop the pan. The remainders of the broken studs weren't 'tall' enough to get a grip on, so pliers didn't work. In a momentary fit of brilliance I reasoned that a pencil eraser might grab the jagged edges of the fractured face enough to back it out, and that did work for one, but not the other.
Ultimately, I ended up using my Dreml to cut a slot in the remaining bolt shaft and used a screwdriver to back it out, but my Dreml hand wasn't as steady as necessary and I nicked the Al trans housing. I didn't think the damage was so great that the gasket couldn't compensate, but 200 miles and 1/2 qt trans later, I'm not so sure. I'm losing fluid again, and those bright red drops of type F fluid come directly from the bolt whose hole I marred (yuck!).
I've heard tale of using JB Weld epoxy to smooth imperfections on pitted heads, I presume a similar fix would apply here? If so (and more specifically), I've seen the fix described as "apply, let cure and sand".
I'm guessing that 50 grit Al oxide would be a bad idea, but am not at all certain of the right path, so any advise would be welcome.
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