1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
If you live in an area where they use salt obviously the best thing is to not drive it in the winter. If it were my car, I had a bit of time and a place to work here is what I would do in the order that I would do it.
a) strip out the interior carpet/seats - check integrity along "rocker-panels" from front to rear - as well as weld areas for mud flaps under rear seat in front of rear tires; check areas in and around wheel wells at front and rear inside car weld points - these seams and welds are starting points for rust. If you have rust then consider using POR15 if it is not integrity related - POR15 is not to be applied over paint so you have to balance stripping off undercoat against using POR 15 - however if ypi can get exposed rusty metal then its a good choice;
b) power spray where possible entire underside to see where undercoating is flaking off - weak areas with rust underneath will be exposed -key areas: wheel wells inside at the weld points and at A arm area, along the edge of wheel well - exposed after removing trim, complete A arm area; front skid plate area and weld points from body panel to underneath at this area; shock tower in and out - check integrity; lower door panel areas - remove door trim to check -plus door sill kick plates front and back; rear wheel well entire area - accessible from INSIDE vehicle, trunk area and weld points accessible after removing carpet/lid from trunk etc.
Check ALL drain and assorted rubber plugs underneath car - don't be afraid to poke around with a screw driver - it will reveal weak spots. Check underneath windscreen/wiper trim/rubber and be prepared for rust there - NIP this in the bud, underneath door handles as well - the slightest rust here will grow quickly.
c) each of these areas - specifically wheel wells - inside and out plus underneath at door area and drain plugs are traps for moisture - SAAB designed these to have a "flow through" system but it means moisture will get trapped regardless;
d) Its unlikely you have NO rust but small amounts can be treated with POR15. I personally think its debateable about what is gained by scraping off existing undercoating on the entire car - some do check quality of metal underneath. If it does flake off then you DO need to treat metal underneath. I am a believer in applying additional undercoating after - BUT this can trap moisture and accelerate rusting if you are not careful where you put it.
Note that at the rear wheel wells in and out there are several rubber plugs wih tiny holes - these are perfect to put oil spray with wand.
e) once you have checked everything you will notice that car is designed so that you can apply oil spray everywhere - I use two types - Rustcheck/Krown - which comes in a thick oil coating and then a spray with more flow. I spray -EVERYWHERE in cavities etc; use the thick stuff to fill cavities and anywhere there is an access point -thin stuff goes into door sill kick panel drill holes, rubber plugs, windscreen trim, door handles, shock towers, A arms and back, and I do so twice a year - spring and fall. The objective is to get this stuff INSIDE moisture traps - once there it will flow and creep along.
f) wash regularly - be prepared to pull carpet every other year or so to check integrity of floor panel - especially on passenger side
g) other areas to check thoroughly:
- panhard rod and rear axle - connection/bolt points - hard to access but must inspect with light;
- area where fuel lines enter body underneath rear of car
- "junction area" at front of rear wheel well - this is thin metal here - very thin and rusts out
- exhaust tunnel in and out and underneath heat shield fibre mat on inside
- brake dust shields - these rust out at rear - i haven't replaced any of mine
posted by 209.197.138...
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