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C900 Bulletin Board
1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest]
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Re: Hard warm start and running hot
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Posted by oldsaab (more from oldsaab) on Wed, 16 Jul 2008 16:50:28 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Hard warm start and running hot, Joe Caparosa, Wed, 16 Jul 2008 15:57:18
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HI, let's do the second issue first. I vote for the Radiator. If you can influence the temperature by load and movement on the car it's almost always the radiator. for instance, if you are doing the highway thing at 50mph and the temp is at the horizontal position, and you push to 80 or so and the tem starts to rise, and then coasting back to 50 or so it returns to before, and if you then get off the freeway and poke along at 25-35 and the temp starts to rise... it's the radiator. The radiator is partially plugged and flowing water in only a portion of it's capacity. this means less effective cooling. light load at freeway speed and it's at the balance point and is happy, heavy load at freeway speed and it needs the full flow capacity and it's not available, moderate load at stop and go or slow speed and it, again, needs the full flow capacity. The thermostat will *usually* fail to not working at all, ie full hot right now. Radiator is not too bad, especially if you have a Bentely. Pay attention to the part about removing the one fan, removing the distributor cap, and the hardes part is the lower radiator hose clamp.

On the first part, I suspect the AIC valve. It's the guy sitting on top of the thermostat cover with two hoses to it and one electrical connector on top. Remove it and with a small screwdriver thru the side opening see if the metal cylinder inside will move freely. It either will, or you will say what is he talking about move? LOL. If it moves freely this is most likely not the problem, put it all back. If it does not move, or moves only when you force it (it should move like a ball in a tube as you shake it back and fort, freely and not need forcing to go to the other end...) then clean it with either PB Blaster and/or WD-40. I do not recommend using Carb Cleaner OR Brake Cleaner. Both of these will melt plastic. Friends of minee say then wash out it out with WD-40. Still don't like doing it that way. The top end of the AIC is plastic and ends with the electrical connector. If you cover one of the hose connections and blow into the other it better not leak, ones that leak thru the connector will give variable idle (not as bad as what you have though...).

So clean it and take your time, maybe overnight, to get the crud loose and then get it happy!


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