1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
an important step left out. The rear calipers are also the emergency/parking brake and the caliper has a mechanical adjustment that ratchets to keep the pads up close for the emergency brake. You need to back the mechanical adjuster off to get the full clearance for new thick pads. On the top of the caliper there is what appears to be a bolt (six sided affair), you need to use a six point socket, sorry forget the actual size, and lefty loosey and you will discover it's not really a bolt but a cap to cover a tunnel where the adjuster screw mentioned above lives. You need an Allenwrench to lefty loosey the HEX adjuster, again forget the exact size, maybe 5 or 6 MM? You should have it in the set you have, you *do* have a $10 set of Hex, right? It may be stiff to move at first, but should get easier after a turn or two, then very easy, *then* stiff again, this is your sign that you are done. Do both sides then I like to slip in the thinest old pad you have and *then* slip a lever into place (I have a motorcycle tire iron, a mid size flat screw drver works too, lean on it and hold, it will move the puck/pad or bar back, you don't need hulk-o-mania strength, just constant pressure until it moves all the way in, it is forceing fluid backwards thru the system, have a bit of patience. Be sure to replace the caps / bolts. you should have just enough room to slip the new guys in place. If you have never done brakes before... after you have everthing back together AND BEFORE YOU DRIVE ANYHWERE... START THE CAR AND THEN GENTLY PUMP THE BRAKES TO THE FLOOR AT LEAST 10 TIMES, you should note that they get stiffer and stop farther and farther away from the floor.. This is because the pads have been pushed all the way out/apart, the rotor has *some* wear and therefore the pads/caliper/et.al. clearance is too far from the rotor, adjustment is necessary to keep you from doing a panic stop and having NO BRAKES and this is how to do it. whoo hoo!
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