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Zig:
Here are two posts that sort of detail it. One I posted in answer to your earlier request, on the 16th. The other is CMyles's own post to another Saabnetter, on Sept. 15.
Here is what CMYles posted on this:
Re: clutch master cylinder... help!
Posted by CMyles (more from CMyles) on Thu, 15 Feb 2007 09:58:11
In Reply to: clutch master cylinder... help!, Nathan Morrison, Thu, 15 Feb 2007 07:08:39 Nathan,
First, why did you replace the MC? Are you certain that you did not have a slave cylinder problem? The hose from the reservoir to the clutch master is intact, right? But anyway, assuming that you have two good cylinders (master and slave) now and the problem is just air in the line, here's my advice. I've found that bleeding the clutch line from bottom to top seems to be more efficient and it's pretty easy. Here's how I do it; First smear a little grease on the threads of the bleeder to create a better seal when it's loose. Don't get the grease on the tip. Get a piece of clear vinyl tubing that will fit on the bleed nipple (1/4" I seem to recall) about 2 feet long. Fit the tubing to the nipple and while holding it upright fill it with brake fluid (I use a little beaker with a spout), then crack the nipple loose and apply some air pressure to the top of the tubing. If you have a "Miti-vac" that's the ticket. If not you can actually just wipe the end of the tubing clean and blow with your mouth, it doesn't require much pressure. Leave the cap loose on the reservoir and as you watch the brake fluid go down the tubing you'll notice the reservoir filling up. You may have to draw some fluid out of the reservoir so there's room for the stuff coming up from below. You may have to do this 2-3 times and there is a "sweet spot" when the nipple is loosened just the right amount to allow flow. Unlike "top-down" bleeding this technique has never failed to remove all the air from a clutch line for me and goes really quickly once you get the hang of it. Good luck."
End of quote.
So, Zig, that's where I learned to do it from. Have done it twice, good results.
Also, this really recent brief version of it by CMyles:
Re: Transmission Not Disengaging
Posted by CMyles (more from CMyles) on Mon, 15 Sep 2008 12:04:29
In Reply to: Re: Transmission Not Disengaging, Jeff, Mon, 15 Sep 2008 09:31:10
Jeff,
Everybody has their own "foolproof" way to bleed the clutch hydraulics (you'll do that after rebuilding the MC), here's mine, it never has failed to work very quickly for me: Remove the reservoir cap, attach a 2 foot piece of clear vinyl hose to the bleed nipple and fill it with brake fluid then crack the nipple loose and pressurize the hose with the exhaust end of a "Mighty-vac" or an air compressor set on about 5 psi or (like I do) put it in your mouth and blow (no kidding, works great). Watch for the bubbles and brake fluid to rise in the reservoir. Do that a few times while draining the excess fluid from the reservoir and you'll move all the air out of the line and have good pedal. Cheers
posted by 198.233....
posted by 70.105.24...
, Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:00:37
, Sun, 21 Sep 2008 19:31:15, Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:05:41
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