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Re: Buying advise- very long
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Posted by Saab Junkie [Email] (more from Saab Junkie) on Sun, 5 Apr 2009 06:06:21 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Buying advise, Lectricblue13, Sat, 4 Apr 2009 21:49:33
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I am only a shade tree mechanic, no professional. There are folks with more knowledge than I have, but when I buy a Saab these are my thoughts:

- Look for rust around right control arm. It is not uncommon. It can be often repaired, but why bother?
- Look for rust around door bottoms
- Look for rust around fender lips
- If engine cold, open coolant reservoir and see if there is pressure escaping. A lot of pressure despite sitting overnight can be a head gasket.
- Start the engine, let it get warm, keep coolant cap off. Look for bubbles coming from return coolant, again can be a sign of head gasket problems.
- Can pull spark plugs. If one looks brand new, and the others not, think head gasket.
- Look to see if all of the idiot lights come on at start up. If they do not, it may be that they pulled the bulb to avoid fixing something (have seen this with check engine light, and SRS light).
- If ABS equipped, with the ignition in "run" but with the engine not running (good time to check idiot lights) stomp on break pedal fast, hard and quick (jabbing it). The ABS and break lights should come on after >10 stomps. Less than 10 means a new accumulator is coming, < 5, needs to be fixed before purchase.
- Look for accident damage. A bad fitting hood can be a sign.
- Drive the car. Does the turbo (if equipped) boost near to the red? If not, does it boost middle yellow? If yes, does the mid-yellow boost NOT change when the break is applied (at same time full throttle is applies)? That is an indicator the car is stuck in base boost, not hard to fix, but a good price reducer.
- Drive about 30-40 MPH and hit the brakes hard. If ABS, try to skid (be safe with this, in a large empty lot, or a deserted road that is very wide). The car should not pull to the side. If it does & has ABS this can be a sign of a very expensive ABS valve body malfunction... not to mention the part is no longer made.
- Look at the rear axle and make sure it is not bent in the middle (bends easily if someone tries to use it as a jack point).
- With the car running and not moving, turn the wheels full left and right. Does the steering rack groan like it is in protest? Could be a sign that the rack is in need of TLC.
- Does the transmission shift smoothly? If manual, with the car in neutral and running, let out the clutch. If there is a "tick-tick-tick" that goes away with the clutch depressed, could be a chipped tooth on the idler gear, and a sign of an abused transmission.
- In 20 years of ownership, all of mine have leaked (engine, transmission, steering rack). I don't worry much about leaks, but I do look to see if a large puddle forms in an hour or two. If large, then I investigate.
- I do not worry much about interiors. All have sagging headliners, cracked dashes, and worn seats. It is nice if the heated seat still functions though.

I am sure there are many, many more areas to look. These are just some of my areas. With exception of the rust, none of these are real show stoppers for me, but allow me to know what I am getting into, and what price I am willing to pay. If the body is solid, almost any thing else can be fixed, the question will be is the price right? I often do not have the luxury of an indy inspection prior to purchase, since 2 of my 3 were bought out of state. If you can have them look it over 1st, it is a good idea. I could not is a few cases, but I did have an indy go over it after purchase.

~Junkie
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