1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
BeeP, You will need a new fuel pressure check valve first Can be purchased on ebay or saabnet.com sponsors and likely some 5/16 high pressure injector rubber hose with the blue plastic lining you can buy at auto zone and 4 small clamps to fit the hose and some white spray grease to slick up the fuel injector line interior (as you willlikely have to break or cut the old FP check valve to remove it.I don't recall your year, but in the 89 900 to the 94 vert 900. Remove the trunk floor, which you said you did. Then there should be a cover with a rubber seal arounfd it about the size of a small coffee can lid. It is on the left. This is the fuel pump access cover. The smaller one on the right is the fuel quantity sending unit. You want to access the larger cover on the left (drivers side). Once you take off this metal cover you should see a plactic ring with large segmented teeth. If you had to take out the pump, this is what you would turn CC to remove pump. However, the fuel check valve ( and here I am hoping you lossened the (17MM?) hex banjo fitting at the front of the fuel rail about 30 seconds after shutting off the engine to see if fuel pressure is there. If fuel gushes out (use goggles or glasses to protect eyes) the you should not try to change the fuel check valve (which I shall return to in a minute) . If no fuel obvious at loosened banjo fitting it is almost always the fuel supply line check valve , but could be (rarely) the Fuel pressure regulator FPR(or what ever it's called just beyond the fuel rail and near the A/C compressor. Lets go back to check valve if no pressure in rail (as determined by no fuel at loosened banjo fitting ( taking care to hold the plastic fuel line so it does not turn with the banjo fitting) ANYWAY! There is on top of the fuel tank nessled inside of that large plasti brown ring, a piece of plastic (remember to take off neg terminal from battery) On or through this piece of plastis is a torx screw. remove it . Noting the fuel lines and the electrical connector (for the fuel pump and how it is positioned. Now there are two white plastic elbows. One is the fuel return line that returns excess fuel pressure fuel from the FPR. I think the one towards the front or on the left is the one. Bentleys schematicd seems reversed to me and I don't recall which line Wait I think on top of the pump housing it says in and out. The check valve is the one that says out. You should have a new check valve before you go any further. Cut the fuel line (plastic just about an inch from the elbow of the white plastic valve (there are other ways to do this but I Use a very sharp razor (remeber there are gas fumes here and even a heater blade can be dangerous and the offered method is a blade type fitting on a soldering iron (too scary for me) any way if it is the fuel cpressure check valve the old one has to come out. So seperate it from the line as stated and then pull the check valve fromt the outlet hole by gently using pliers or vise grips gently rock and pull up being carefull not to hit yourself in the eye teeth or face. Once it is out (check down in hole and make sure no parts from old cjheck valve has broken off. Then Take about 3-4 inches of the new fuel pressure line and slip it over the original plastic fuel line being sure to lube well and not to bend the old plastic line. Slide the 4 clamps over the rubber injector line clamp down 2 on original plastic line. Then cut rubber line you added to correct lenght the slide it on new pressure check valve adjust, slide down side of new check valve into outlet of fuel pump and then secure the remaining 2 clamps on new check valve using care not to bend or distort old plastic fuel line or check valve. You can go to thew fuse box having reconnected the negative terminal to the battery after connecting fuel pump plug (don't insatll that plastic peice or torx screw yet. Then go to fuse box at left of engine. remove fuses 27 and 30. Note what voltage (wattage whatevr goes where) (I think Take a 3 inch piece of heavy wire and put one side to neg side of 27 and other end to pos side of 30. (they suggest a toggle switch and fuse in this wire, but you should be ok but use discreation. (I can't recall if the key has to be on or not , but I think this will run the pump with the key off and the engine not running. Once connected go check your clamps and make sure you have no leaks. Then disconnect the 27 /30 wire and carefully open the banjo fitting at front of fuel rail. If fuel there you have fixed the problem, and the car should start quicly as the check valve is now preventing the fuel from leaving the fuel rail. Tighten fitting , replace fuses ,put that plastic piece on the fuel lines and fuel pump electrical and if able leave trrunk floor out a day or two.tive the car. Then recheck your clamps at the fuel lie repair. If ok replace the cover and floor and drive.
posted by 76.177.14...
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